Cuba Revisited

It’s been nearly seven months since I returned from my adventure in Cuba. Sometimes it seems like a lifetime ago. The thrill and excitement of the trip have worn away now that I am not talking and writing about it as much as I had been. I wonder how it is we keep it with us.

I liken this after effect to the excitement pre leaving.  There’s so much to do to get ready, planning and packing and organizing, that those months leading up to the trip are filled with anticipation and are nearly as exhilarating as the trip itself.

Afterwards, it is possible to relive the trip for months in the sharing of it.  It never quite gets old showing pictures and telling stories of the places you’ve been and the things you’ve done, does it?  I can tell the same story of diving the cenote or salsa dancing with the bartender over and over again. 

Recently a friend returned from a legal trip to Cuba. She actually flew direct from Miami, something I didn’t know was possible. She has a step brother living and working there which made the trip legal.  She even has a stamp in her passport.

When she told me she’d be going, I was thrilled. It was another opportunity to share my experience and relive hers.

She went at the exact right time.  A month or so prior, President Obama announced plans to improve relations with Cuba. She got there before everything changed; a huge reason why I went when I did as well.  A huge reason why anyone, I imagine, goes to Cuba; to see the pristine country untouched by commercialism and progress.

But she also got there on the cusp of change.  Listening to her stories brought back a flood of excitement for my time in Cuba, and a sense of awe at how quickly things can shift, perhaps especially when The United States is involved.

The propaganda posters and billboards that I was so fond of photographing while traveling in Cuba were suddenly gone just a month or so after the news of the decision to establish a US embassy in Cuba.  American flags swiftly joined Cuban flags on poles outside of hotels and other establishments, something I never imagined possible, at least not so soon.

The few Cubans who were willing to speak with her, most still in their pre announcement fear, spoke a bit of hope and progress.  There was excitement over the eventual access to the world wide web and cell phones to call family members in the states, even the possibility of seeing loved ones again.

I’m glad I went when I did. (Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of where Cuba and the US are heading. I think it's about time really. And mind you, it hasn't gone unnoticed, the fact that all these changes mean we might one day be able to purchase that most precious of liquors, Havana Club, right here in my own country!) I got to see the Cubawe all think about when we think of Cuba.  I had a strong feeling things would be changing very soon and therefore bumped up my travel there, deciding I couldn’t afford to wait.  I’m glad I didn’t.  My friend got to see the beginning of a new era, and those who travel after her, will not see the Cuba she and I saw.

Cuba Revisited

It’s been nearly seven months since I returned from my adventure in Cuba. Sometimes it seems like a lifetime ago. The thrill and excitement of the trip have worn away now that I am not talking and writing about it as much as I had been. I wonder how it is we keep it with us.

I liken this after effect to the excitement pre leaving.  There’s so much to do to get ready, planning and packing and organizing, that those months leading up to the trip are filled with anticipation and are nearly as exhilarating as the trip itself.

Afterwards, it is possible to relive the trip for months in the sharing of it.  It never quite gets old showing pictures and telling stories of the places you’ve been and the things you’ve done, does it?  I can tell the same story of diving the cenote or salsa dancing with the bartender over and over again. 

Recently a friend returned from a legal trip to Cuba. She actually flew direct from Miami, something I didn’t know was possible. She has a step brother living and working there which made the trip legal.  She even has a stamp in her passport.

When she told me she’d be going, I was thrilled. It was another opportunity to share my experience and relive hers.

She went at the exact right time.  A month or so prior, President Obama announced plans to improve relations with Cuba. She got there before everything changed; a huge reason why I went when I did as well.  A huge reason why anyone, I imagine, goes to Cuba; to see the pristine country untouched by commercialism and progress.

But she also got there on the cusp of change.  Listening to her stories brought back a flood of excitement for my time in Cuba, and a sense of awe at how quickly things can shift, perhaps especially when The United States is involved.

The propaganda posters and billboards that I was so fond of photographing while traveling in Cuba were suddenly gone just a month or so after the news of the decision to establish a US embassy in Cuba.  American flags swiftly joined Cuban flags on poles outside of hotels and other establishments, something I never imagined possible, at least not so soon.

The few Cubans who were willing to speak with her, most still in their pre announcement fear, spoke a bit of hope and progress.  There was excitement over the eventual access to the world wide web and cell phones to call family members in the states, even the possibility of seeing loved ones again.

I’m glad I went when I did. (Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of where Cuba and the US are heading. I think it's about time really. And mind you, it hasn't gone unnoticed, the fact that all these changes mean we might one day be able to purchase that most precious of liquors, Havana Club, right here in my own country!) I got to see the Cuba we all think about when we think of Cuba.  I had a strong feeling things would be changing very soon and therefore bumped up my travel there, deciding I couldn’t afford to wait.  I’m glad I didn’t.  My friend got to see the beginning of a new era, and those who travel after her, will not see the Cuba she and I saw.

Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum

I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.

While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singaporeor a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United Stateswhere I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.

If you are in Cubayou would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools

I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.

It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar-Disco Ayala

I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cubaand lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidadwho had also had it on their list of top sites.

Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 

It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall

Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidadand Cienfuegos in Cuba. 

I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.

After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving

I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cubawhere the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 

I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.

I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.

But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 

After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!

The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum

I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.

While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singapore or a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United States where I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.

If you are in Cuba you would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools

I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.

It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar- Disco Ayala

I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cuba and lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidad who had also had it on their list of top sites.

Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 

It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall

Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos in Cuba. 

I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.

After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving

I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cuba where the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 

I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.

I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.

But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 

After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!

The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Top 10 Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part I

10. Glorious Seafood

The seafood in Cubawas fresh, plentiful and cheap. I think I ate seafood at least once a day, often twice.  Lobster was under $10 US. I also had shrimp, swordfish, barracuda, clams and turtle. I suggest eating it prepared in your casa. I found it to be cheaper and better than a restaurant every time.

9. The all inclusive beach in Playa Girón

There are all inclusive resorts all around Cuba.  Lots of these resorts also offer day rates.  There are also beaches that do not have hotels attached to them which offer all inclusive day deals like the one I enjoyed for two days in Playa Girón. They are a great bargain and a great way to spend a lazy day.  The all inclusive rate includes all you can eat and drink. There is usually a lunch buffet spread of typical Cuban food.  The rate may also include various water sports equipment, like snorkeling gear and floats.  Chairs and shades are also provided. 

8. Ernest Hemingway

As I writer, I was thrilled to follow in the footsteps of such a great American author.  Throughout my trip I read, The Sun Also Rises, as well as a collection of his short stories.  There is something exciting about being in a place a writer was and reading his books there. In Havanathere are several places to visit and be reminded of the great author.  Ambos Mundos is the hotel Hemingway would stay at while he wrote two of his novels. You can pay $2 CUC to tour the room he stayed in, complete with the typewriter he used along with various newspaper articles about his Nobel prize.  La Floridita is the bar he would frequent and also where he made the white daiquiri famous. It is a bit of a tourist trap now, but still worth the visit. The daiquiris are out of this world.

7. Playa Blanca

Overall I was not impressed by the beaches in Cuba. It was quite disappointing. I do not know if it is because all of the good beaches are taken up by all the resorts which I did not visit, or if there just aren’t that many good beaches, perhaps due to the fact that 70% of the country island is limestone.

The one beach that stands out was the one I really had to work hard to get to. Playa Blanca in Baracoawas quite hidden and for this reason I saw no tourists the entire day I spent there. Always a bonus. I had to hike for about an hour along the more public beach which was littered and unappealing. I then crossed a rather questionable bridge and walked through a tiny little town I wasn’t sure I belonged in until I finally reached the very small beach that is Playa Blanca.

I was the only one there besides a small family who was cleaning the fish they’d just caught. I befriended the young girl who kept showing me the various sea creatures she’d found.

Beyond the beach a ways you can hire a guide to take you up into the caves and up to the highest point so that you can look out at the ocean and city below.  They were the first caves I saw, and even these had a small swimming hole within them. Playa Blanca was one of the best full days I spent in Cuba.

6. Casas in general and Dimitri and Hostel Moya in particular

Casas Particulares are where you stay when you’re a traveler in Cuba.  You stay with families who have an extra room or two.  Every room I stayed in had a private bathroom and usually two beds.  The rates were ridiculously cheap and you could often get breakfast and dinner for much cheaper and better than any restaurant. The average I paid, including a meal or two was about $20 CUC. 

The other and more important benefit to staying in casas is that you get to meet and interact with the family. You aren’t just served your meal and then left alone. Often, you eat with the family and get to know them. They might tell you secrets about where to go and what to see and where to avoid.  It was also awesome for practicing my Spanish.  (A possible downside for those who do not speak the language, as very few Cubans speak English or anything other than Spanish) I cannot say enough good things about these places and wish they were all over the world instead of hostels. 

My favorite casa was Hostel Moya (don’t be fooled by the name, it is most certainly NOT a hostel.)  Dimitri is the patriarch of this family casa. He was the most welcoming, kind host I’ve even had the pleasure of getting to know. It was he who got me to stay a few days longer than planned in Playa Girón. He was eager and willing to help with any excursion we might have wanted, including snorkeling, night fishing and various car trips. He drove us to Havanawhen we left.  He is also an excellent cook, cooking us the fresh fish he and his soon caught that day. I also had the privilege of meeting his adorable 1 ½ year old grandson Jonathan, and we became great buddies. 

Top 10 Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part I

10. Glorious Seafood

The seafood in Cuba was fresh, plentiful and cheap. I think I ate seafood at least once a day, often twice.  Lobster was under $10 US. I also had shrimp, swordfish, barracuda, clams and turtle. I suggest eating it prepared in your casa. I found it to be cheaper and better than a restaurant every time.

9. The all inclusive beach in Playa Girón

There are all inclusive resorts all around Cuba.  Lots of these resorts also offer day rates.  There are also beaches that do not have hotels attached to them which offer all inclusive day deals like the one I enjoyed for two days in Playa Girón. They are a great bargain and a great way to spend a lazy day.  The all inclusive rate includes all you can eat and drink. There is usually a lunch buffet spread of typical Cuban food.  The rate may also include various water sports equipment, like snorkeling gear and floats.  Chairs and shades are also provided. 

8. Ernest Hemingway

As I writer, I was thrilled to follow in the footsteps of such a great American author.  Throughout my trip I read, The Sun Also Rises, as well as a collection of his short stories.  There is something exciting about being in a place a writer was and reading his books there. In Havana there are several places to visit and be reminded of the great author.  Ambos Mundos is the hotel Hemingway would stay at while he wrote two of his novels. You can pay $2 CUC to tour the room he stayed in, complete with the typewriter he used along with various newspaper articles about his Nobel prize.  La Floridita is the bar he would frequent and also where he made the white daiquiri famous. It is a bit of a tourist trap now, but still worth the visit. The daiquiris are out of this world.

7. Playa Blanca

Overall I was not impressed by the beaches in Cuba. It was quite disappointing. I do not know if it is because all of the good beaches are taken up by all the resorts which I did not visit, or if there just aren’t that many good beaches, perhaps due to the fact that 70% of the country island is limestone.

The one beach that stands out was the one I really had to work hard to get to. Playa Blanca in Baracoa was quite hidden and for this reason I saw no tourists the entire day I spent there. Always a bonus. I had to hike for about an hour along the more public beach which was littered and unappealing. I then crossed a rather questionable bridge and walked through a tiny little town I wasn’t sure I belonged in until I finally reached the very small beach that is Playa Blanca.

I was the only one there besides a small family who was cleaning the fish they’d just caught. I befriended the young girl who kept showing me the various sea creatures she’d found.

Beyond the beach a ways you can hire a guide to take you up into the caves and up to the highest point so that you can look out at the ocean and city below.  They were the first caves I saw, and even these had a small swimming hole within them. Playa Blanca was one of the best full days I spent in Cuba.

6. Casas in general and Dimitri and Hostel Moya in particular

Casas Particulares are where you stay when you’re a traveler in Cuba.  You stay with families who have an extra room or two.  Every room I stayed in had a private bathroom and usually two beds.  The rates were ridiculously cheap and you could often get breakfast and dinner for much cheaper and better than any restaurant. The average I paid, including a meal or two was about $20 CUC. 

The other and more important benefit to staying in casas is that you get to meet and interact with the family. You aren’t just served your meal and then left alone. Often, you eat with the family and get to know them. They might tell you secrets about where to go and what to see and where to avoid.  It was also awesome for practicing my Spanish.  (A possible downside for those who do not speak the language, as very few Cubans speak English or anything other than Spanish) I cannot say enough good things about these places and wish they were all over the world instead of hostels. 

My favorite casa was Hostel Moya (don’t be fooled by the name, it is most certainly NOT a hostel.)  Dimitri is the patriarch of this family casa. He was the most welcoming, kind host I’ve even had the pleasure of getting to know. It was he who got me to stay a few days longer than planned in Playa Girón. He was eager and willing to help with any excursion we might have wanted, including snorkeling, night fishing and various car trips. He drove us to Havana when we left.  He is also an excellent cook, cooking us the fresh fish he and his soon caught that day. I also had the privilege of meeting his adorable 1 ½ year old grandson Jonathan, and we became great buddies. 

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.

So, I waited till I was in Mexicoagain to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cubato Mexicoeasily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexicodoesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.

I had the same concern in Mexicoas I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.

Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.

Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexicoahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  

Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cubaor Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did. 

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.

So, I waited till I was in Mexico again to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cuba to Mexico easily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexico doesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.

I had the same concern in Mexico as I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.

Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.

Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexico ahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  

Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cuba or Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did. 

Cuban Blog Day #23 Spend All Your Money

I was taking a taxi to the airport at noon, so I woke early and enjoyed my last few hours in Havana.  I needed to find a post office to mail the rest of my postcards. I wanted them to be postmarked from Cubaand not Mexico. Finding a place to mail them was surprisingly harder than I expected. I asked a man with a family where one was, and they ended up running around Havana with me, going in and out of various buildings looking for a place that would mail out my postcards.

We never found one and I thanked them for their help and continued on. I finally found a post office on a corner. I was a bit worried that they wouldn’t actually make it home because the guy there was a little shady and took my cards rather secret like. I paid him for the stamps which I watched him put on and hoped they’d make it back.

I went to the plaza and people watched for a bit. I had been noticing all sorts of street dogs with collars on them, though appearing to have no owner about. I inquired about the dogs in one of the museums, and the lady there told me that they take care of them. Various businesses take it upon themselves to care for the many stray dogs all about. They put collars on them so they are marked and feed them. She told me the museum had five dogs. They were all sunning themselves just outside the museum doors. I though it was such a great and kind thing to do.

I went to the Chocolate Café one last time, roamed about different businesses trying to get more Che coins to take back as souvenirs and gifts. I got a lot of strange looks doing this, but I didn’t care. I ended up with 8 coins. I bought a small bought of three year Havana Club to see if I could get it back with me.

I headed back to the casa, packed up and waited for the taxi.  It is always bittersweet to leave a place. I enjoyed my time in Cubaimmensely, yet at the same time I was ready to be done traveling and be home in my own bed with my cats.

At the airport, I had my bags Saran wrapped. It was advice I’d gotten before I left. A friend told me, especially coming back from Cubainto Mexico, to have it done so that items do not get stolen out of it. It was $8 CUC, which I thought was excessive, but I had several CUC leftover which I wasn’t sure I’d be able to exchange in Mexico anyway, so I decided to be safe.

I waited in a super long line to check in, and then another to pay airport tax, $25 CUC, and then another to go through some sort of customs. I wasn’t quite sure what it was as I’ve never had to do that when leaving a country, only when entering.  They took my visa, which I was quite sad about because I had hoped I’d have that to keep in lieu of an actual passport stamp.  The lady nearly stamped my passport, but I noticed in time to tell her not to, and instead she stamped my boarding pass, now, the only proof I had that I had been. I then had to pay tax on my art, $3 CUC for each piece. If I had known this, I would have tried to fit it all into my suitcase.

I was glad to have arrived three hours early to the airport. After waiting in all the lines, I barely had time to take a book out to read before the announcement to board. It was a short flight back to Cancun, and I slept most of the way.

In Cancun, I tried to exchange my remaining CUC. I had thought that surely they would take the CUC, but not the peso national. They wouldn't take either, so I was stuck with about $30 US worth of CUC. (Anybody headed to Cubasoon?)

I waited for a bus to take me into town and ended up staying in the same hostel I did when I first arrived. They even remembered me.  I stayed in my room and enjoyed having the internet for the first time in nearly a month.

Traveling Tip #26 Spend all your money-  It is always difficult to know exactly how much money to exchange when traveling.  You do not want to exchange too much and then have to exchange back, thus losing lots in the back and forth.  I ended up sticking at or under my budget the whole way, exchanging about $500 US per week.  What through me off, was knowing about the $25 CUC tax I would have to pay at the airport and not having anything less than $100 Canadian bill to exchange. I’d used up all my $50s in an effort to lighten my money belt some.  I also really thought there’d be no problem exchanging CUC for Mexican pesos once I was there. After all, what do Cubans do when they come to Mexico? So, if you’re coming to Cuba, unless you’re planning to return, spend all your CUC in Cuba.  

Cuban Blog Day #23 Spend All Your Money

I was taking a taxi to the airport at noon, so I woke early and enjoyed my last few hours in Havana.  I needed to find a post office to mail the rest of my postcards. I wanted them to be postmarked from Cuba and not Mexico. Finding a place to mail them was surprisingly harder than I expected. I asked a man with a family where one was, and they ended up running around Havana with me, going in and out of various buildings looking for a place that would mail out my postcards.

We never found one and I thanked them for their help and continued on. I finally found a post office on a corner. I was a bit worried that they wouldn’t actually make it home because the guy there was a little shady and took my cards rather secret like. I paid him for the stamps which I watched him put on and hoped they’d make it back.

I went to the plaza and people watched for a bit. I had been noticing all sorts of street dogs with collars on them, though appearing to have no owner about. I inquired about the dogs in one of the museums, and the lady there told me that they take care of them. Various businesses take it upon themselves to care for the many stray dogs all about. They put collars on them so they are marked and feed them. She told me the museum had five dogs. They were all sunning themselves just outside the museum doors. I though it was such a great and kind thing to do.

I went to the Chocolate Café one last time, roamed about different businesses trying to get more Che coins to take back as souvenirs and gifts. I got a lot of strange looks doing this, but I didn’t care. I ended up with 8 coins. I bought a small bought of three year Havana Club to see if I could get it back with me.

I headed back to the casa, packed up and waited for the taxi.  It is always bittersweet to leave a place. I enjoyed my time in Cuba immensely, yet at the same time I was ready to be done traveling and be home in my own bed with my cats.

At the airport, I had my bags Saran wrapped. It was advice I’d gotten before I left. A friend told me, especially coming back from Cuba into Mexico, to have it done so that items do not get stolen out of it. It was $8 CUC, which I thought was excessive, but I had several CUC leftover which I wasn’t sure I’d be able to exchange in Mexico anyway, so I decided to be safe.

I waited in a super long line to check in, and then another to pay airport tax, $25 CUC, and then another to go through some sort of customs. I wasn’t quite sure what it was as I’ve never had to do that when leaving a country, only when entering.  They took my visa, which I was quite sad about because I had hoped I’d have that to keep in lieu of an actual passport stamp.  The lady nearly stamped my passport, but I noticed in time to tell her not to, and instead she stamped my boarding pass, now, the only proof I had that I had been. I then had to pay tax on my art, $3 CUC for each piece. If I had known this, I would have tried to fit it all into my suitcase.

I was glad to have arrived three hours early to the airport. After waiting in all the lines, I barely had time to take a book out to read before the announcement to board. It was a short flight back to Cancun, and I slept most of the way.

In Cancun, I tried to exchange my remaining CUC. I had thought that surely they would take the CUC, but not the peso national. They wouldn't take either, so I was stuck with about $30 US worth of CUC. (Anybody headed to Cuba soon?)

I waited for a bus to take me into town and ended up staying in the same hostel I did when I first arrived. They even remembered me.  I stayed in my room and enjoyed having the internet for the first time in nearly a month.

Traveling Tip #26 Spend all your money-  It is always difficult to know exactly how much money to exchange when traveling.  You do not want to exchange too much and then have to exchange back, thus losing lots in the back and forth.  I ended up sticking at or under my budget the whole way, exchanging about $500 US per week.  What through me off, was knowing about the $25 CUC tax I would have to pay at the airport and not having anything less than $100 Canadian bill to exchange. I’d used up all my $50s in an effort to lighten my money belt some.  I also really thought there’d be no problem exchanging CUC for Mexican pesos once I was there. After all, what do Cubans do when they come to Mexico? So, if you’re coming to Cuba, unless you’re planning to return, spend all your CUC in Cuba.  

Cuban Blog Day #22 Oh Hemingway

 I woke early to enjoy my last full day in Cuba.  I walked down Obispo Street, famous in HavanaVieja for its shops and cafes. I was a bit early for all the shops to be open, but it was good people watching.

I walked to the main square and rode up an elevator to the top floor of the eclectic 20^th century Gómez Vilabuilding. This building has a periscope called Camera Obscura that gives a live view of the entire city.  It is one of only 74 in the world and the only one in Latin America and the Caribbean. It was really quite impressive. I had no idea such a thing existed.  It was a big circle display and could be zoomed into and out of so that you could see clothes on a line blowing in the wind or the flapping of a bird’s wings. It was a great way to get a full view of the city.

I stayed up top and took lots of pictures. I also wrote a bit, enjoying the peacefulness and calm being above the crowd brought.

Once down, I roamed the square, walked through the tiny, free playing card museum and a few churches and historical buildings. I had no set plan for my last day, and it was nice to just go where the sidewalk took me.

I stopped for lunch at a café on Obisbo Street and people watched.  I read a bit more of my Ernest Hemingway short stories.  I had brought with me to Cuba The Sun Also Rises and a collections of short stories by the great writer. I was using this trip and Hemingway as inspiration for my own writing. 

After lunch, I walked to Ambos Mundos, the hotel made famous by Hemingway who wrote two of his novels there, including his Pulitzer Prize winning, The Old Man and The Sea.  I paid the $2 CUC to take a private tour of room 511 where Hemingway stayed when he visited. Several of his fishing rods were displayed around the room, along with a few photos of Hemingway and Castro after a fishing tournament.  Most people believe that Hemingway and Castro had a strong friendship. This is made evident by all the photos of the two. But, upon closer inspection one will notice that both men are in the same attire in every picture. The two, in fact only met briefly during the fishing contest, which Castro is noted as winning.  

His typewriter was in the center of the small room, encased in glass.  I got particular joy out of seeing this and imagining him typing away on it.  A copy of his Pulitzer Prize award was framed on the wall along with several articles announcing his win.  Special attention was paid to the fact that the novel was written in Cuba.

It was a corner room with views of both HavanaVieja plaza, as well as the harbor where he’d often fish.  It was a typical hotel room which just happened to host a great and tormented writer every so often.

On the same floor as his room there is a rooftop bar and restaurant which offered more great views of the city. I stayed above and took more pictures. I made my way down and towards the artisanal market I had been to the day before. This time I was armed with money and ready to haggle. I ran into the Germans there and we walked around for a bit together, but I had business to take care of.  I bought art, and magnets, and postcards, and a Havana Club Guayabera shirt and so much more to take home as gifts and memorabilia. It was so much fun shopping and bargaining in the giant market.

I went back to the casaand drank a few Cuba Libres on my balcony.  Music was playing loudly from somewhere on the street below. I noticed people above and across from me looking out of their windows or out from their balconies. They were looking down to the street below where a man was dancing to the music. He was in the middle of the street, not minding the cars that wanted to pass him every so often, doing a mix between break dancing and I don’t know what.  More and more people came to their windows to watch the man below.  The guys across and one storey up from me invited me to come over and share a drink with them.  I cheers’ed them from across the way. We all watched, enjoying the free entertainment.  Soon a woman approached and instead of simply passing by the man, she joined him.  It was so quintessential Cuba-The loud salsa music, the crazy man dancing on the narrow street below, the neighbors all out viewing the spectacle. 

I enjoyed dinner with the Germans one last time. They were leaving very early the next morning and so headed back for an early night of packing.  I stayed out, with one more place I needed to go to call my travels in Cubacomplete. La Floridita. The bar made famous by Hemingway. He’d walk to this bar in the evenings from Ambos Mundos after a long day of writing and wet his whistle with a daiquiri or five.

My plan was simply to have one daiquiri and call it a night. I had heard that the place was more of a tourist trap than anything, with over priced drinks and very little atmosphere, but I couldn’t not go to one of the great’s old stomping grounds. There is just something about being in the same place, seeing the same things, drinking the same cocktail, perhaps even sitting in the same barstool as someone you admire that spurs inspiration.

Sure enough, as I walked in I could see the place was full of mostly tourists. I sat at the bar and next to me was another Americahere on a legal, expensive tour, somehow having gotten away from his group. Tsk, Tsk. I ordered my daiquiri in Spanish and chatted with the man for a bit, till he left, probably worried about curfew.

Once he left, the three men next to him scooted over. They asked if I was Cuban, wondering why I ordered my drink in Spanish. I’m certain they were just looking for a way to slide over and talk to me.  I was in Cuba, didn’t everybody order their drinks in Spanish? The three men were from the Canary Islands, and they doted on me the rest of the evening. I more than made up for the drinks I had to buy the hustlers the day before.  I had a photo shot with the Hemingway statue at the end of the bar, I tried every kind of daiquiri they made there, I danced salsa with each of them. Even the bartenders seemed in on it, letting me behind the bar to make a few drinks myself.

It was absolutely the perfect last day in Havana-from the periscope, to the Hemingway hotel, to the dancing in the street, to the daiquiris, I saw it all.

Traveling tip # 25 Let them buy you drinks- There are few benefits of being a solo traveler as great as this. It keeps your budget down and lets you meet great people.

Cuban Blog Day #22 Oh Hemingway

 I woke early to enjoy my last full day in Cuba.  I walked down Obispo Street, famous in Havana Vieja for its shops and cafes. I was a bit early for all the shops to be open, but it was good people watching.

I walked to the main square and rode up an elevator to the top floor of the eclectic 20^th century Gómez Vila building. This building has a periscope called Camera Obscura that gives a live view of the entire city.  It is one of only 74 in the world and the only one in Latin America and the Caribbean. It was really quite impressive. I had no idea such a thing existed.  It was a big circle display and could be zoomed into and out of so that you could see clothes on a line blowing in the wind or the flapping of a bird’s wings. It was a great way to get a full view of the city.

I stayed up top and took lots of pictures. I also wrote a bit, enjoying the peacefulness and calm being above the crowd brought.

Once down, I roamed the square, walked through the tiny, free playing card museum and a few churches and historical buildings. I had no set plan for my last day, and it was nice to just go where the sidewalk took me.

I stopped for lunch at a café on Obisbo Street and people watched.  I read a bit more of my Ernest Hemingway short stories.  I had brought with me to Cuba The Sun Also Rises and a collections of short stories by the great writer. I was using this trip and Hemingway as inspiration for my own writing. 

After lunch, I walked to Ambos Mundos, the hotel made famous by Hemingway who wrote two of his novels there, including his Pulitzer Prize winning, The Old Man and The Sea.  I paid the $2 CUC to take a private tour of room 511 where Hemingway stayed when he visited. Several of his fishing rods were displayed around the room, along with a few photos of Hemingway and Castro after a fishing tournament.  Most people believe that Hemingway and Castro had a strong friendship. This is made evident by all the photos of the two. But, upon closer inspection one will notice that both men are in the same attire in every picture. The two, in fact only met briefly during the fishing contest, which Castro is noted as winning.  

His typewriter was in the center of the small room, encased in glass.  I got particular joy out of seeing this and imagining him typing away on it.  A copy of his Pulitzer Prize award was framed on the wall along with several articles announcing his win.  Special attention was paid to the fact that the novel was written in Cuba.

It was a corner room with views of both Havana Vieja plaza, as well as the harbor where he’d often fish.  It was a typical hotel room which just happened to host a great and tormented writer every so often.

On the same floor as his room there is a rooftop bar and restaurant which offered more great views of the city. I stayed above and took more pictures. I made my way down and towards the artisanal market I had been to the day before. This time I was armed with money and ready to haggle. I ran into the Germans there and we walked around for a bit together, but I had business to take care of.  I bought art, and magnets, and postcards, and a Havana Club Guayabera shirt and so much more to take home as gifts and memorabilia. It was so much fun shopping and bargaining in the giant market.

I went back to the casa and drank a few Cuba Libres on my balcony.  Music was playing loudly from somewhere on the street below. I noticed people above and across from me looking out of their windows or out from their balconies. They were looking down to the street below where a man was dancing to the music. He was in the middle of the street, not minding the cars that wanted to pass him every so often, doing a mix between break dancing and I don’t know what.  More and more people came to their windows to watch the man below.  The guys across and one storey up from me invited me to come over and share a drink with them.  I cheers’ed them from across the way. We all watched, enjoying the free entertainment.  Soon a woman approached and instead of simply passing by the man, she joined him.  It was so quintessential Cuba- The loud salsa music, the crazy man dancing on the narrow street below, the neighbors all out viewing the spectacle. 

I enjoyed dinner with the Germans one last time. They were leaving very early the next morning and so headed back for an early night of packing.  I stayed out, with one more place I needed to go to call my travels in Cuba complete. La Floridita. The bar made famous by Hemingway. He’d walk to this bar in the evenings from Ambos Mundos after a long day of writing and wet his whistle with a daiquiri or five.

My plan was simply to have one daiquiri and call it a night. I had heard that the place was more of a tourist trap than anything, with over priced drinks and very little atmosphere, but I couldn’t not go to one of the great’s old stomping grounds. There is just something about being in the same place, seeing the same things, drinking the same cocktail, perhaps even sitting in the same barstool as someone you admire that spurs inspiration.

Sure enough, as I walked in I could see the place was full of mostly tourists. I sat at the bar and next to me was another America here on a legal, expensive tour, somehow having gotten away from his group. Tsk, Tsk. I ordered my daiquiri in Spanish and chatted with the man for a bit, till he left, probably worried about curfew.

Once he left, the three men next to him scooted over. They asked if I was Cuban, wondering why I ordered my drink in Spanish. I’m certain they were just looking for a way to slide over and talk to me.  I was in Cuba, didn’t everybody order their drinks in Spanish? The three men were from the Canary Islands, and they doted on me the rest of the evening. I more than made up for the drinks I had to buy the hustlers the day before.  I had a photo shot with the Hemingway statue at the end of the bar, I tried every kind of daiquiri they made there, I danced salsa with each of them. Even the bartenders seemed in on it, letting me behind the bar to make a few drinks myself.

It was absolutely the perfect last day in Havana- from the periscope, to the Hemingway hotel, to the dancing in the street, to the daiquiris, I saw it all.

Traveling tip # 25 Let them buy you drinks- There are few benefits of being a solo traveler as great as this. It keeps your budget down and lets you meet great people.

Cuban Blog Day #21 It's Nobody's Birthday

My alarm didn’t go off today, so I was lucky the Germans were their usual late. We ate breakfast quickly and piled into Dimitri’s car to drive the 1 ½ to 2 hour drive to Havana.  I was grateful to be in a car and not a bus and therefore get there much quicker. I slept most of the way there.

Dimitri took us to his cousin’s casa which was in the heart of HavanaVieja (Old Havana). The Germans had been to Havana in the beginning of their trip, and they were very excited about our location, as was I.  We were also quite happy with the price, which though it was the most expensive casa of my whole trip at $25 CUC with breakfast, was still quite cheap for the big city.

I said a sad goodbye to Dimitri and got a few pictures with him. I thanked him for his kind hospitality and all of his help. I told him I would tell the world about him and his casa. He called me sister and bid me farewell.

Inside, after settling in, Dimitri’s cousin welcomed us with a shot of rum elixir. None of us knew what it was exactly. We also were a little apprehensive about taking a shot at 10 in the morning, but we were in Havanaand it would have been rude to say no, right? I was not too fond of it. It was quite strong and not at all like rum.

I made plans to meet up later with the Germans for dinner and took off toward Parque Centralwhich was just around the corner from the casa.  From there I hopped on a hop-on hop-off bus. I am usually not a fan of these, but given my limited time in HavanaI thought this would be the best way to see as much of the city as I could. I took a seat on the top of the open air double decker bus and was off.

We drove by the malecón (the boardwalk) which was much longer than I expected and seemed to go the length of the city. It was crowded with people playing music, walking, or simply sitting and people or wave watching. The ocean crashed against the wall of the malecón spraying passersby.  We passed by the famous Che building and took pictures. It was crazy to see all of the different buildings, some of them in a state of disrepair having been left to crumble, scaffolding still in its place from when the embargo took effect, trees growing up and around the building and its scaffolding. Time stopped.  Other buildings were grand and impressive. Each were scattered among one another. This is why you go to Cuba.

I came back to the park and stopped for lunch.  On my way to a restaurant, I was stopped by a curious couple and their baby.  They chatted with me and informed me that The Buena Vista Social Club was having a huge festival for their 15^th anniversary. I was super excited and wanted to know where it was.  They said they were going that way anyway and told me they would take me there. I thought I’d go find out where it was and then come back after lunch.  We walked and talked, and they convinced me to stop into a bar which they claimed had been one of Hemmingway’s old haunts.  We drank Cuba Libres and I was told it was the wife’s birthday. We celebrated; until the bill came.  It was $20 CUC for three drinks. I didn’t even know how that was possible. I knew Havanawas more expensive than the rest of the country, but this was outrageous. I wouldn’t pay that much for drinks in the states.  To add to it all, the Cubans expected me to pay the entire thing!

I paid and got out of there as quickly as I could. I tried to wrap my head around such an elaborate hustle and just couldn’t see going to such lengths just to get a drink and bring folks to a particular bar.  When I told the Germans about this, their mouths hung open. They finished the story for me; the child, the birthday, The Buena Vista Social Club, every last detail was the same. It had happened to them the first time they were here.  Unbelievable!

After lunch, I got back on the bus and went to the place I had been dreaming about since planning my trip- The Havana Club Factory. I took a tour and learned all about the rum I’d coveted for years.  At the end we had shots of 7 year rum. I sat in the bar and had a Cuba Libre while listening to live salsa music. I hopped back on the bus, and we stopped at a giant craft market that I would return to the next day when I had more money.

I met the Germans back at the casa, and we drank Cuba Libres on our balcony until we walked to dinner. We ate a really nice meal in a fancy restaurant, but it was still very cheap. The Germans had been there before. After, we walked around Havana Vieja and took in the night scene.

Traveling Tip # 24 It’s nobody’s birthday- I generally pride myself on being especially keen at spotting the hustle. This one blew me away in its attention to detail and the fact that it had worked on at least two different unsuspecting travelers. So, if you are ever in Cuba and someone tells you 1) it’s their birthday and lets get shots at this great bar Hemmingway used to hang out in, and/or 2) The Buena Vista Social Club is in town, don’t buy it. 

Cuban Blog Day #21 It's Nobody's Birthday

My alarm didn’t go off today, so I was lucky the Germans were their usual late. We ate breakfast quickly and piled into Dimitri’s car to drive the 1 ½ to 2 hour drive to Havana.  I was grateful to be in a car and not a bus and therefore get there much quicker. I slept most of the way there.

Dimitri took us to his cousin’s casa which was in the heart of Havana Vieja (Old Havana). The Germans had been to Havana in the beginning of their trip, and they were very excited about our location, as was I.  We were also quite happy with the price, which though it was the most expensive casa of my whole trip at $25 CUC with breakfast, was still quite cheap for the big city.

I said a sad goodbye to Dimitri and got a few pictures with him. I thanked him for his kind hospitality and all of his help. I told him I would tell the world about him and his casa. He called me sister and bid me farewell.

Inside, after settling in, Dimitri’s cousin welcomed us with a shot of rum elixir. None of us knew what it was exactly. We also were a little apprehensive about taking a shot at 10 in the morning, but we were in Havana and it would have been rude to say no, right? I was not too fond of it. It was quite strong and not at all like rum.

I made plans to meet up later with the Germans for dinner and took off toward Parque Central which was just around the corner from the casa.  From there I hopped on a hop-on hop-off bus. I am usually not a fan of these, but given my limited time in Havana I thought this would be the best way to see as much of the city as I could. I took a seat on the top of the open air double decker bus and was off.

We drove by the malecón (the boardwalk) which was much longer than I expected and seemed to go the length of the city. It was crowded with people playing music, walking, or simply sitting and people or wave watching. The ocean crashed against the wall of the malecón spraying passersby.  We passed by the famous Che building and took pictures. It was crazy to see all of the different buildings, some of them in a state of disrepair having been left to crumble, scaffolding still in its place from when the embargo took effect, trees growing up and around the building and its scaffolding. Time stopped.  Other buildings were grand and impressive. Each were scattered among one another. This is why you go to Cuba.

I came back to the park and stopped for lunch.  On my way to a restaurant, I was stopped by a curious couple and their baby.  They chatted with me and informed me that The Buena Vista Social Club was having a huge festival for their 15^th anniversary. I was super excited and wanted to know where it was.  They said they were going that way anyway and told me they would take me there. I thought I’d go find out where it was and then come back after lunch.  We walked and talked, and they convinced me to stop into a bar which they claimed had been one of Hemmingway’s old haunts.  We drank Cuba Libres and I was told it was the wife’s birthday. We celebrated; until the bill came.  It was $20 CUC for three drinks. I didn’t even know how that was possible. I knew Havana was more expensive than the rest of the country, but this was outrageous. I wouldn’t pay that much for drinks in the states.  To add to it all, the Cubans expected me to pay the entire thing!

I paid and got out of there as quickly as I could. I tried to wrap my head around such an elaborate hustle and just couldn’t see going to such lengths just to get a drink and bring folks to a particular bar.  When I told the Germans about this, their mouths hung open. They finished the story for me; the child, the birthday, The Buena Vista Social Club, every last detail was the same. It had happened to them the first time they were here.  Unbelievable!

After lunch, I got back on the bus and went to the place I had been dreaming about since planning my trip- The Havana Club Factory. I took a tour and learned all about the rum I’d coveted for years.  At the end we had shots of 7 year rum. I sat in the bar and had a Cuba Libre while listening to live salsa music. I hopped back on the bus, and we stopped at a giant craft market that I would return to the next day when I had more money.

I met the Germans back at the casa, and we drank Cuba Libres on our balcony until we walked to dinner. We ate a really nice meal in a fancy restaurant, but it was still very cheap. The Germans had been there before. After, we walked around Havana Vieja and took in the night scene.

Traveling Tip # 24 It’s nobody’s birthday- I generally pride myself on being especially keen at spotting the hustle. This one blew me away in its attention to detail and the fact that it had worked on at least two different unsuspecting travelers. So, if you are ever in Cuba and someone tells you 1) it’s their birthday and lets get shots at this great bar Hemmingway used to hang out in, and/or 2) The Buena Vista Social Club is in town, don’t buy it. 

Cuban Blog Day #20 Pretend You're One of Them

I spent one last day in Playa Giron.  Eva wanted to do the cenote dive, and I wanted one more day on a beach before we made our way to the big city. I went back to the all inclusive in a $5 CUC taxi and paid the $15 CUC for all I could drink and eat for the entire day. It was a beautiful day, and I lay in the beach chairs, read magazines and jumped into the turquoise water every now and again.  The perfect hangover cure.

The chef became friendly with me and before I knew it, I was getting chair side service with Cuba Libres delivered to me every five minutes or so.  He informed me that there would be a bus soon for the hotel guests to go back to Playa Giron. I decided to try my luck and see if I could take it back.

When it arrived I got on like all the other guests. When we passed by my casa, I asked if he could drop me off there.  It was no problem.  I sat out in the Adirondackchairs in the front of the casa and wrote and watched the world pass by.  Soon I joined Dimitri’s daughter-in-law in their back patio and had a wine and coke concoction she made.  I chatted with the whole family and played with the little boy, Jonathan.

For our last dinner in Playa Giron the Germans came over and Dimitri served us fresh barracuda caught that day by him and his son. I’d only had it once before at a restaurant in Utila, Hondurasand loved it.  Dimitri told me it was actually illegal. I thought he was joking until he explained to me that it is poisonous.  Barracuda will apparently eat anything and because of this they sometimes eat poisonous things and then become poisonous themselves.  He told me not to worry though, because before they ever serve it, they first give it to a chicken and wait an hour. If the chicken doesn’t kick the bucket, they serve it up. Lucky me! I enjoyed it very much and had more than my fair share as the Germans are not fond of seafood. Pity.

We chatted around the kitchen table and arranged plans for Dimitri to take us to Havana the next day. It was cheaper than a bus because we were splitting it, and we could go when we wanted to.  We wanted to get there early so as to have a full day there when we arrived.  Due to an oversight on my departure day- I had thought I was flying out on a Tuesday rather than a Monday, thus giving me only two days in Havana, instead of the 3-4 I was hoping for. I was not too disappointed by this fact as I am never too fond of big cities and prefer quiet beach towns like the one we were about to leave.  It was also nearing the end of my trip and as much as I hate that it happens, it always does, I start winding down, losing my zest to go go go and it often alters my plans anyhow. Does this happen to anyone else on long trips?

Traveling Tip # 23  Pretend you’re one of them-  as a solo traveler it is often much easier to blend in with the flocks of other tourists.  This comes in handy when hotel busses come to get guests and you need a ride back to town.

Cuban Blog Day #20 Pretend You're One of Them

I spent one last day in Playa Giron.  Eva wanted to do the cenote dive, and I wanted one more day on a beach before we made our way to the big city. I went back to the all inclusive in a $5 CUC taxi and paid the $15 CUC for all I could drink and eat for the entire day. It was a beautiful day, and I lay in the beach chairs, read magazines and jumped into the turquoise water every now and again.  The perfect hangover cure.

The chef became friendly with me and before I knew it, I was getting chair side service with Cuba Libres delivered to me every five minutes or so.  He informed me that there would be a bus soon for the hotel guests to go back to Playa Giron. I decided to try my luck and see if I could take it back.

When it arrived I got on like all the other guests. When we passed by my casa, I asked if he could drop me off there.  It was no problem.  I sat out in the Adirondack chairs in the front of the casa and wrote and watched the world pass by.  Soon I joined Dimitri’s daughter-in-law in their back patio and had a wine and coke concoction she made.  I chatted with the whole family and played with the little boy, Jonathan.

For our last dinner in Playa Giron the Germans came over and Dimitri served us fresh barracuda caught that day by him and his son. I’d only had it once before at a restaurant in Utila, Honduras and loved it.  Dimitri told me it was actually illegal. I thought he was joking until he explained to me that it is poisonous.  Barracuda will apparently eat anything and because of this they sometimes eat poisonous things and then become poisonous themselves.  He told me not to worry though, because before they ever serve it, they first give it to a chicken and wait an hour. If the chicken doesn’t kick the bucket, they serve it up. Lucky me! I enjoyed it very much and had more than my fair share as the Germans are not fond of seafood. Pity.

We chatted around the kitchen table and arranged plans for Dimitri to take us to Havana the next day. It was cheaper than a bus because we were splitting it, and we could go when we wanted to.  We wanted to get there early so as to have a full day there when we arrived.  Due to an oversight on my departure day- I had thought I was flying out on a Tuesday rather than a Monday, thus giving me only two days in Havana, instead of the 3-4 I was hoping for. I was not too disappointed by this fact as I am never too fond of big cities and prefer quiet beach towns like the one we were about to leave.  It was also nearing the end of my trip and as much as I hate that it happens, it always does, I start winding down, losing my zest to go go go and it often alters my plans anyhow. Does this happen to anyone else on long trips?

Traveling Tip # 23  Pretend you’re one of them-  as a solo traveler it is often much easier to blend in with the flocks of other tourists.  This comes in handy when hotel busses come to get guests and you need a ride back to town.

Cuban Blog Day #19 We're Gonna Need a Bigger Cup

More diving!  I ate breakfast at the casa and then caught the dive bus with the Germans to the dive shop.  There were way more people than I expected, and at first I was nervous about the ratio of divers to instructors, but it turned out a few people were just snorkeling.

This was my first shore dive, and I didn’t know what to expect. The bus pulled up along the coast and we geared up. Then, we simply jumped off a cement platform into the water.  Eva hadn’t dived in a few years, so she went with a different group. I was sad we wouldn’t be dive buddies. I was much more comfortable on this dive. We went through several tunnels, saw another wreck and some awesome schools of fish.

Back on land, we loaded up into the bus and headed to our second dive, my first cenote. I’d only heard about cenotes about a year prior. A friend had dived a few in Mexicoand couldn’t sing their praises enough.  We drove up along the coast a ways, but then we took a right turn away from the coast and into what looked like a forest. I was very confused. I’d thought we’d enter the cave through the ocean somehow.  We drove through the woods for a bit longer before we came to a curious stop.  I did not know where exactly they thought we’d be getting into water.  They pointed toward the left, and I walked toward it. I could see a tiny opening with a ladder and climbed down.  There was an even smaller opening from which I would soon learn I would be jumping into the water. I questioned my desire to actually do this for a moment as fear got the better of me.

We all suited up and one by one jumped directly forward into the water and waited for our Dive Master to join us and give us whatever instructions we needed to dive in a cave.  Soon, we turned our flashlights on and descended.

We immediately had to pass through a very tiny, narrow opening; perhaps the scariest part of the whole thing for me. Once through, the cave opened up to a vastness I would never have believed existed while I was above ground. I began to wonder if the whole world was like this, so deceiving in its greatness and ready to be discovered.  I have to admit, I felt a bit like a great explorer, it was aided ever so slightly by the knowledge that very few people explore caves the way I was finally getting to do.

We swam slowly through the cave looking up and down, shining our flashlights here and there.  Niels and another fun diver had to wait for us up top, and they had jumped in and were swimming around a bit at the opening of the cave. It was great to be able to look back and see their feet dangling 100 or so feet above us. Great perspective of where we actually were.

I’d feared I’d be more claustrophobic than I was. The cave was so enormous that I couldn’t see from one side to the other, nor could I see the ceiling. Our Dive Master would point out various cave drawings or stalagmites which would remind me that I was indeed inside a cave. The cold helped with that too.

At one point, we surfaced into a tiny pocket of air, the roof just above our heads.  The whole bunch of us were simply in awe. This was the first cenote dive for all of us, and it was clear that we were beyond impressed.  Our dive master explained that we would be returning the way we came, and we descended again.

Upon our return, from the opening of the cave above, the sun was shining down into the water. You could see each individual ray penetrating the water, glowing. It went all the way down to the depths of the cave, bright, strong.  It was the most magnificent thing I’ve ever seen. We lingered there for a long while, thankful to be underwater so that our speechlessness did not matter. I did not want to leave.

Back above water, the Austrian couple and the Hungarian women I’d dived with and I could not tell the others enough about our dived. I hugged Niels, so thrilled that I had accomplished this goal. We rode the bus back to the dive shop with permanent smiles on our faces.

We met Eva at the shop and Neils convinced the Austrian couple, who had a rental car, to come with us, and therefore drive us to the all inclusive resort we’d heard about from other travelers. We all piled into the car and drove the 15 or so miles to the resort.

It was $15 CUC for all you could eat and drink. We took full advantage of this, first eating a big lunch of the usual and then finding a spot by the crystal clear water.  We drank cocktails of Havana Club and Tu Kola out of tiny plastic cups. We took turns diving from the cement platforms into the green blue water.  We enjoyed each other’s company.

Near four pm a worker came and told us they would all be leaving, but we could stay as long as we liked.  They advised us to fill up on drinks. We didn’t need to be told.  We filled all the water bottles we had and each of us took as many cups as we could and gathered them at our spot by the sea. We stayed another hour or so enjoying our private paradise.

We drove back and planned to meet later that night at one of only two bars in the town. After showering and eating another meal with Dimitri, I headed to meet the others where we continued our shenanigans late into the night. It was a perfect day!

 

Traveling Tip #22 Bring a Bigger Cup

 

At the resort where the dive shop is located and where we borrowed ice and cups the first day we arrived, I noticed several Cubans with their own, giant 7/11 type cups. I soon realized the purpose of these cups at our resort. The bigger the cup, the less frequently you have to go to the bar to refill.