Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Thursday, May 28, 2015

O Canada



from my stash from Cuba because I knew I’d be getting more soon. Turns out, Canada has an entire separate terminal for US bound flights and the duty I had my first ever business trip for an international TESOL conference in Toronto Canada where I presented along with three of my colleagues on how to resuscitate your listening and speaking classes.  And by ‘business trip’ I mean it was nearly entirely paid for- flight, hotel and most food. I had to buy my own drinks, which I happily did, especially since I could order Havana Club in most bars! I’ve never had anyone pay for my travel and just couldn’t get over how great this idea was- someone else paying for me to see the world.
I’ve been to Canada and Toronto several times. My family used to live in upstate New York, and I remember the days when we would cross the border without a passport. So Canada, sadly, was not a new country for me, but I was ok with that because it was a paid trip and aside from time, I was not wasting other resources visiting a country that would not get me closer to my 196 country goal.
Our presentation went super well with a packed house of over 80 attendees and lots of questions. I was surprised to find that I actually enjoyed presenting, being in front of an audience and feeling like a professional with something to share.  It got me super motivated and excited for my next proposal and conference for which I am already searching locations that are new to me and much warmer than Canada in March.
Though it was a business trip and we were meant to attend the various presentations at the conference, we managed to fit in quite a bit of sightseeing. I’d gotten a few guide books for Toronto from the library and did some reading on the plane ride. I read about Kensington Market which is famous for its fun little neighborhoods and vintage clothing stores.  It was top of my list to see.
I was blown away by the amount of vintage shops and have four new to me dresses to prove it. It was fun wandering the streets and shops in the quaint little neighborhood. We stopped in a bar and met a Colombian Canadian who was very friendly and chatted us up for a bit. Indeed, most everyone we met in Canada was super friendly and made our time there ever better.
We also made it to Lawrence Market a huge food market with fresh meat and fish and cheese. From there we walked to the water front. Most of the lake was frozen, yet there was a beach with sand and Adirondack chairs and signs everywhere warning us not to swim.
We also tried to explore the Toronto underground, but were surprised to learn that the shops were not open on Saturday. This seemed quite strange. We did do some walking around down below, mostly to stay out of the bitter cold. Apparently you can walk much of downtown Toronto underground.  I’ve heard it’s so intricate that even locals get lost below ground.
Our evenings were filled with catching up with old colleagues and enjoying the bar scene in Canada with a few locals we met on the street.  And of course, I enjoyed all the Havana Club I could handle while it was free flowing from the rail.

Traveling Tips for Toronto

  1. A very friendly local did us a favor and told us bathrooms downtown are always downstairs. This proved to be true everywhere we went.
  2. I had been very excited to find out what exactly Canadians call Canadian bacon. I had visions of ordering a burger and asking for…. Bacon?  This exact scenario actually happened to some friends and I many years back in Vancouver. We never got the answer then. I am pleased to tell you- Canadians call Canadian bacon, peameal bacon. I know not the reason.

  1. If you are planning to buy cigarettes and liquor at the duty free shops in Canada to
save you money like I’ve advised before, DON’T.  I was shocked to find that as well as not having any of the cigarettes I smoke, they were also $72-$86 per carton! I was very happy that I bought a carton from the states to Canada for $42US. 

As for liquor, I had my whole plan figured out for my precious Havana Club rum. I even let a whole bottle be drunk free shop there DOES NOT sell Havana Club due to the embargo.  If you are flying to anywhere other than the US you can get your cigars and rum no problem.  Sadly I will now have to ration my one remaining bottle until I go to Europe in a couple of months.
* photos at https://wordsandothersuchthings12.wordpress.com/2015/05/28/o-canada/

Thursday, May 21, 2015

traveler's remorse

Travelers’ Remorse
It happens, usually about two beers in, where I feel myself forgetting the things I think I should do and become content with just doing what I am doing. I guess it is a ‘be here now moment’. So much of traveling, especially mine where I am rather certain I will not return to the place I am, is filled with things you think you are supposed to do rather than the things you actually want to do. I feel it is an ongoing battle and am surprised, with my years of traveling, that I still experience this. I suppose it really is the fact that I don’t think I will return that I feel the need to do and see everything, even if it is not what I actually want to do.
I still remember the moment, on a beach in Las Peñitas, Nicaragua in 2007 when I finally decided that I do not care about museums or churches or whatever else the guide book tells me I must see. I was meant to be leaving said beach and very clearly in my body and soul did not want to. But if I did not, I would not get to do and see whatever it is I thought (at the time) I was supposed to see. I was toes deep in sand when I very clearly decided I did not care.
 I was traveling alone, I was on a two month time schedule to get to Panama and back to Honduras for my flight out and the only thing telling me to go and see was a guide book. Who was I trying to impress?  If it were anyone back home, or whoever I might end up telling my traveling stories to, I could very easily lie…’yes, I saw such and such museum, church, ruin, monastery. Oh it was amazing,” how would they know the difference anyway.
So that is not what I cared about.  Rather I think it was something innate within me telling me, ‘you must do this and that, or else you are missing out.’ It was very hard to convince myself to stay on that beach in Nicaragua for a few more days enjoying the sun and my writing, but at the same time there was something very releasing about it. I allowed myself to decide what exactly and WHY exactly I travel.
That was all before I set my goal to travel to every country and therefore before I knew I would not be back to the places I visited, so perhaps that made it easier. I do not know. What I do know is that I very much enjoyed that journey, doing exactly what I wanted to do. Not stepping foot inside a church, entering very few museums and instead laying on beaches, meeting locals, lingering over long dinners in outdoor cafés, read entire novels in a day, writing away.
So how am I here, 10 years later and still having this sort of traveler’s regret before I’ve even left the place? Again, I have to think, that now that I have determined my goal and set my rules of not returning till I have visited every country, takes with it that sort of ‘do everything you can while you can’ attitude. I get that. I do. But that doesn’t negate the fact that there are certain things I enjoy and certain things I do not. What kind of fun would I have if all I did were the things in the ‘sights’ category of my travel guide, even though I thoroughly do not enjoy them. There comes a time where we have to be honest with ourselves and decide that traveling or vacation is indeed for us. Us unique individuals who travel for myriad different reasons and each journey will indeed be unique in this way.
I am ok with that. Truly I am. And that’s why I like this state, two beers in, sitting in a riot bar (not even mentioned in my guide, but highly suggested by a friend) and thoroughly enjoying two of my favorite things, drinking and writing, in a unique bar  I am quite certain I will never come upon the likes of again.  This is what I enjoy. This is what traveling is for me. Yet sadly it takes me two beers to come to the realization, or rather the acceptance that that is ok.
One beer in I was lamenting not having gone into the numerous free museums my Budapest discount card allowed me, feeling guilty for taking time to write (and drink) fully knowing that today is my last day in Budapest and tomorrow I would be off to another part of Hungary. Even though I very consciously decided to go to said bar.  Clearly my intuition is a few steps ahead of me, thank goodness. After a rather tiresome day of doing the things I thought I should do and battling Saturday crowds and not entirely not enjoying myself, I retired to my hostel to write. Mind you, something I very much anticipated doing a lot of, only to find myself feeling guilty that I was not out and about ‘enjoying’ my last day in Budapest. At which point I decided, or rather my heart did, to go to a riot bar. The most famous in Budapest.
Here I have written on my novel and surpassed 50,00 words, a milestone I have been working towards for more than three years, drunk incredible beer, met an Irish couple and three dock men from Denmark, all while people watching and admiring the crazy riot bar that is Szimpla (surprisingly translated to ‘single’ rather than ‘simple’ as I had assumed. Perhaps more fitting for me, the solo traveler.) Should I regret that?

Of course not. So perhaps the solution is to drink at least two beers daily and as early as possible to avoid this traveler’s regret. Or perhaps a simpler solution would be to come to terms with the very thing I did ten years ago and simply decide that what I want to do is exactly what I should do. And if, I ever make it to my goal, perhaps Budapest, or Puerto Rico, or Saigon, or Buenos Aries will be the very next place I shall go.

Monday, April 27, 2015

W is for Whale Shark


I think it’s every diver’s dream to dive with a whale shark.  It’s most certainly mine. As the largest extant fish species, its average length is 46 feet. 46 feet! It can weight up to 15 tons.  It is rather docile, and it is quite common, once finding one, to swim along with it. Talk about realizing just how small you are while swimming about with an almost 50 foot giant in the ocean.

In Honduras, where I learned to dive, whale sharks are quite commonly spotted during the spring months.  And while I dived a lot during that time, I was never lucky enough to find one.  So, I’ll keep diving and perhaps on that live aboard, or perhaps somewhere else on my adventures around the world, one day I’ll swim with this gentle giant in the sea.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

T is for Travel to All 196 (recognized) Countries in the World

I’ve been looking forward to writing my T since this whole challenge started. This is my biggest and toughest bucket list goal.  It is quite close to my heart. It is also the goal I will be most proud of once achieved.
After I made it to my seventh continent, a goal I thought I would achieve some time in old age and not when I was 28, I had to think of a new even crazier goal.  As avid of a traveler as I am, it wasn’t a far leap to decide to visit every country in the world.
Sometimes it seems oddly possible.  I’ve made a rule for myself that, with the exception of Chile (a piece of my heart is still there and one must always return to where they left their heart) and Vieques, Puerto Rico as mentioned in a pervious post (an exception made because I would actually move there and live and therefore travel from there), I will not return to countries I have already visited.  If I always go to new countries, then if I travel to 2-4 countries a year for the rest of my life, I can do it. I’ve been traveling to at least two countries a year since I’ve been stateside. Also, since I plan to live abroad again, that 2-4 countries becomes much bigger when I travel from wherever it is I move. It’s all entirely possible.
I know some people think this is crazy, and I understand that it is fun to go back to a place you know and love. But I am the same way with many things, books, for example. With the exception of The Catcher in The Rye, which I read yearly, I do not re-read books. There are simply too many books in the world, and I will not read all that I desire to read, if I repeat books. This is how I feel about countries. There are simply too many amazing places to see and discover that I cannot allow myself to revisit any until I’ve seen them all.
I am currently sitting at 44 countries, Cuba being my last. In two short weeks I will fly to Eastern Europe where I will travel around Romania, Hungary, Slovakia, The Czech Republic and Poland for a little over a month.  That will put my number at 49.  This winter, I will travel to The Dominican Republic where I will spend one week celebrating my 50th country in style at an all inclusive resort with several friends joining me. I think having traveled to 50 countries is certainly something to celebrate, and I intend to fully commemorate it. From The Dominican Republic, I will spend another week in Haiti touring around. Number 51.
The adventure never stops when you’re trying to see as much of the world as you can in the short life we live, and I don’t want it to. I am fortunate that I have a teaching job in which I can take a term off, unpaid mind you, but off. I am also fortunate that I can return to this job after seven weeks gone.  It is also a job that gives me a lengthy, albeit unpaid, winter break as well.  This gives me lots of time to travel.  And although I don’t usually think of it as lucky that I do not have kids and a family, for purposes of traveling, it sure is convenient.  It also helps with the money it takes to get to all these places.  Though I will still travel once I have kids, they will just make it even more of an adventure.
And while putting it all out here on the page and thinking of the logistics of doing this makes it seem almost easy, sometimes it feels entirely overwhelming and even impossible. Can I really keep up with 2-4 countries a year once I’m older, or have kids and other obligations?  Will some countries be impossible or off limits?  But then I just remind myself how impossible I thought it would be to get to Antarctica, my seventh and final continent, and I am renewed and re-motivated and for a tiny moment I remember that I can do anything I set my mind to.


Monday, April 20, 2015

Q is for Quit my Job

Don’t get me wrong, I actually like my job. I even considered myself a little lucky that I found a career that I am both really good at and enjoy.  It is also, thankfully, a job I can do anywhere in the world.  That’s what first drew me to English as a Second Language (ESL) teaching.  I’ve been teaching for 10 years now, and for the most part I love it.
But, it’s not my passion. It is simply something I got into in order to travel the world and make money.  Traveling is my passion, but you don’t very well make money simply traveling, unfortunately. But my other passion, is what I’m doing right now, writing. 
I write short stories, flash fiction, and poetry. I am working on a novel called This Story Takes Place in a Bar, for which I now have nearly 50,000 words.  I get up at 5:30 most mornings in order to write for two hours before I go to my day job. It works for me, but it is not ideal.  It kind of sucks to have to leave in the middle of a really good part because I have to go to work. Two hours a day is more than I’ve ever been able to dedicate to my writing, but it is still not enough. It is never enough.

My ultimate goal, of course, is getting my novel published, having the world read my writing and being validated as a writer.  Along with all of this, is a rather large paycheck.  Then, I quit my day job. I’ll have full days to write whatever I want. I’ll travel the world and find inspiration everywhere. Then, I’ll write all about it. But first, I have to quit my day job.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

M is for Move Abroad (Again)




I really, really love the idea of being an Expatriate.  I have always been fascinated by those who have made another country their own. I considered myself an expat the whole time I lived in Chile and Honduras, but I questioned it. Could I really be an expat if I always knew I would be returning to the place I originally called home?  It felt a bit like cheating.
I think I’ve finally come to terms with it. I am pretty sure I will always call The United States home, no matter where it is I live.  I am just too patriotic and there are just too many creature comforts I can’t live without for too long like ice, Campbell’s Tomato Soup and the simple conveniences that come with being in a country you spent the majority of your life and where you speak the language.  As a former expat, I can tell you, nothing compares to being able to order a hamburger, no mayo, extra pickles, medium rare and a fountain coke with lots of ice and getting exactly that.  It’s the little things.
I’ve learned I don’t need to be a long term expat, but I would like to move abroad again for a year or two, or longer if I love it. I like the idea of being open to whatever comes.  I imagine moving to the Middle East. ESL teachers get paid ridiculously well there which would fund all of my travels around the Middle East. I imagine staying at least until I visited every country in the Middle East. I’m not sure I would ever see these countries otherwise and if I am going to visit all 196 countries, this is the best way to do.

My preferred method of travel has always been to move abroad and then visit all of the surrounding countries while living wherever it is I am.  It is cheaper and easier and I can make money along the way.  I visited every country in Central America, except Belize, while I lived in Honduras, and while living in Chile I managed to visit Peru, Argentina, Uruguay and Antarctica.  I will do the same in whatever Middle Eastern country I land in, all while making more money than I’ve ever made!

Monday, April 13, 2015

K is for Kiteboarding

When I travel, I usually like to do something new adventure wise. Apparently just traveling isn’t adventurous enough for me anymore. This is how I began SCUBA diving and also how I tried cave tubing, cenote exploring, snorkeling, sunrise hiking, white water rafting, and volcano climbing among other crazy things.

The first time I saw anyone kiteboarding, I was in Belize, on Caye Caulker.  I instantly wanted to do it.  Unlike the fears we talked about in H is for Hot Air Balloon, I have no fears in the water. Most of my joy in life comes from water.  Unfortunately, there on Caulker, I did not have the money to afford the expensive lesson. I had not planned for it in my budget for that trip because I didn’t even know such a thing existed at the time.  But perhaps on my next beach adventure I’ll be flying through the water.

J is for Join the Peace Corps



When I was in high school, I was voted most likely to join the Peace Corp.  It made sense. At the time, it seemed like a very good way to see the world.  What eventually turned me off back then was the two year time commitment.  Even after college, two years seemed like too long to commit to anything. Then I moved to Chile to teach. I had no return flight. I ended up returning nearly two years later. It didn’t seem that long after all.

What I like most about the Peace Corps is their intensive language program. I would hope to go somewhere Spanish speaking so as to continue my language learning, though it’s not exactly the volunteer’s choice. The two year commitment still seems a bit overwhelming at times, but now I envision going when I older, perhaps retired and with a partner to join me. I hear they prefer couples because they’re much more likely to stay the full two years.  Perhaps one day I will fulfill my high school destiny and join the Peace Corps.

Friday, April 10, 2015

I is for Island Life



I’m not sure where exactly my affinity for islands came from. Perhaps it started while growing up in Hawaii, or perhaps my being a Pisces has something to do with it. Who knows? What I do know, is that islands have been a significant part of my life for a very long time and that the longer I am on an island the longer I’d like to stay.
Aside from Hawaii, where I spent two formative years, I’ve spent time on Roatán and Útila, Honduras when I lived and taught there. I would go to the islands often to dive and get away from the tiny town I lived in. One of my favorite places when I live in Chile is the little known island of Chiloé off the coast of southern Chile. I had the unique experience of staying with my good friend, Belén in her family’s cabin for the better part of a week. It was magical. I traveled the island nation of Cuba for a month last summer. I traversed the length of the island discovering all that has been kept from Americans.
Most recently, I’ve fallen in love with a different island. It is an island off an island.  The island of Vieques, Puerto Rico captured my heart in 2010.  I traveled there and immersed myself in a Spanish language program in San Juan and then took a ferry to one of two islands off of Puerto Rico. With just over 9,000 people, Vieques is tiny.  Very few cars are on the island, and it is the only place I have ever seen wild horses roaming the streets.  Every beach I laid on felt like my own private beach.
I saw more conch shells than people. The few bars on the island were full of welcoming locals and ex pats.  Simply put, I felt at home, instantly.
I understand the trials and tribulations of island life. I experienced rolling blackouts in Útila often.  I know that if I ever want to go to a movie theater or eat something different than what the five or so restaurants on the island offer, I must head to the mainland.  I know this is not exactly a fast journey, nor a dependable one. I understand the isolation of island life. In fact, that might be what draws me most.
While on Vieques, I couldn’t stop thinking about one day returning. This is something I usually do not do.  I can’t return to a place when there is so much I haven’t seen. Yet something about the simplicity and ease of the island kept the idea fresh in my head for weeks and months after I returned, and I started planning. 
I thought about my snowbird folks, splitting their time between Colorado Springs and Palm Springs, California.  Of course, being retired makes this a bit easier, but I don’t think I have to be retired to make this work.  I envision starting out with just a few months. Renting a temporary place (which abound on islands) and bringing just a few possessions, mostly my laptop and books.  I would use the isolation to write my novel.  I picture myself at a table in an outside bar just steps away from the beach, drinking Don Q and coke and typing away, taking refreshing breaks every now and again in the ocean. For money I could teach online, tutor whoever I could find on the island, and even possibly bartend (I’ve always wanted to do it again.) I could make it work. I know I can.
Eventually I’d like to make it more of a full split, half my time in Colorado where I would teach the remaining semesters and tutor as much as possible to save up for the move, the other half in Vieques, while traveling here and there throughout of course.

It surprises me that I am so keen to return to a place, but I pretty much cannot stop thinking about it and know it’s what I need to do and will do one day. The island life is the life for me!

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

G is for Greece


I’ve traveled. A lot. I’ve been to Europe three times, yet in all those times, I never made it to Greece. I have a feeling this was, at least slightly, on purpose.  For as long as I can remember I’ve dreamed of honeymooning in Greece.  I don’t know where the idea came from, or how I picked Greece out of all the countries in the world to travel to with my new husband, but it is for this reason that I think I have been ‘saving’ Greece.
It’s not as romantic as, say, Paris, but I think it is much more my style. I’m in love with the Mediterranean sea, the deep blues and greens of the water. I imagine lazy days on the beach and other days diving to see what there is to see underwater.   The architecture makes me think of fairy tales.  I cannot wait to roam the intricate streets to seemingly nowhere.  And don’t get me started on the food. My mouth waters just thinking about all the dolmades, saganaki, and mousaka I will eat while there.

Now I just need to work on the husband bit (perhaps that’s tomorrow’s ‘H’.)

Monday, April 6, 2015

E is for Easter Island

I lived in Chile for nearly two years, yet it’s not surprising that I never made it to Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, as natives call it. That’s because it is 2,336 miles away from the mainland country. But it’s always been a dream of mine to visit.
I am fascinated by its stories and history and of course the moai, the giant face statues that seem to have been on the island since its beginning. I am also quite fond of the idea of an island in the middle of nowherhttps://wordsandothersuchthings12.wordpress.com/e. I find the isolation enchanting.
Now, as you may know, I have a rather strict rule about returning to countries I’ve already visited. There is just simply no way I can make it to all 196 countries in my lifetime if I spend time traveling to a country I’ve already been.  Chile, however, is and will always be the one country I will allow myself to return to. (Stay tuned for V is for Vendemia, another bucket list goal of mine that takes place in Chile.)
 Having lived and loved Chile for almost two years, it stole my heart. I have several amazing friends there and have already returned once since living there. I’m pretty sure I will always be returning to Chile in one way or another.  Add to that, the fact that Rapa Nui is so remotely removed from the actual country of Chile, and therefore seems as though it is indeed another country, and I can very easily rationalize this trip.
It’s the cost of getting there that’s rather prohibitive. That’s why I envision doing this while I’m traveling around the world on Peace Boat (stay tuned for P is for Peace Boat.) There are a few voyages that sail to Easter Island which would make it all very worthwhile and affordable. 

I cannot wait to have my toes in the sand of this great and mystical island while moais look on and the sun sets into the ocean.

Thursday, April 2, 2015



Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Cuba Revisited

It’s been nearly seven months since I returned from my adventure in Cuba. Sometimes it seems like a lifetime ago. The thrill and excitement of the trip have worn away now that I am not talking and writing about it as much as I had been. I wonder how it is we keep it with us.
I liken this after effect to the excitement pre leaving.  There’s so much to do to get ready, planning and packing and organizing, that those months leading up to the trip are filled with anticipation and are nearly as exhilarating as the trip itself.
Afterwards, it is possible to relive the trip for months in the sharing of it.  It never quite gets old showing pictures and telling stories of the places you’ve been and the things you’ve done, does it?  I can tell the same story of diving the cenote or salsa dancing with the bartender over and over again. 
Recently a friend returned from a legal trip to Cuba. She actually flew direct from Miami, something I didn’t know was possible. She has a step brother living and working there which made the trip legal.  She even has a stamp in her passport.
When she told me she’d be going, I was thrilled. It was another opportunity to share my experience and relive hers.
She went at the exact right time.  A month or so prior, President Obama announced plans to improve relations with Cuba. She got there before everything changed; a huge reason why I went when I did as well.  A huge reason why anyone, I imagine, goes to Cuba; to see the pristine country untouched by commercialism and progress.
But she also got there on the cusp of change.  Listening to her stories brought back a flood of excitement for my time in Cuba, and a sense of awe at how quickly things can shift, perhaps especially when The United States is involved.
The propaganda posters and billboards that I was so fond of photographing while traveling in Cuba were suddenly gone just a month or so after the news of the decision to establish a US embassy in Cuba.  American flags swiftly joined Cuban flags on poles outside of hotels and other establishments, something I never imagined possible, at least not so soon.
The few Cubans who were willing to speak with her, most still in their pre announcement fear, spoke a bit of hope and progress.  There was excitement over the eventual access to the world wide web and cell phones to call family members in the states, even the possibility of seeing loved ones again.

I’m glad I went when I did. (Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of where Cuba and the US are heading. I think it's about time really. And mind you, it hasn't gone unnoticed, the fact that all these changes mean we might one day be able to purchase that most precious of liquors, Havana Club, right here in my own country!) I got to see the Cubawe all think about when we think of Cuba.  I had a strong feeling things would be changing very soon and therefore bumped up my travel there, deciding I couldn’t afford to wait.  I’m glad I didn’t.  My friend got to see the beginning of a new era, and those who travel after her, will not see the Cuba she and I saw.

Cuba Revisited

It’s been nearly seven months since I returned from my adventure in Cuba. Sometimes it seems like a lifetime ago. The thrill and excitement of the trip have worn away now that I am not talking and writing about it as much as I had been. I wonder how it is we keep it with us.
I liken this after effect to the excitement pre leaving.  There’s so much to do to get ready, planning and packing and organizing, that those months leading up to the trip are filled with anticipation and are nearly as exhilarating as the trip itself.
Afterwards, it is possible to relive the trip for months in the sharing of it.  It never quite gets old showing pictures and telling stories of the places you’ve been and the things you’ve done, does it?  I can tell the same story of diving the cenote or salsa dancing with the bartender over and over again. 
Recently a friend returned from a legal trip to Cuba. She actually flew direct from Miami, something I didn’t know was possible. She has a step brother living and working there which made the trip legal.  She even has a stamp in her passport.
When she told me she’d be going, I was thrilled. It was another opportunity to share my experience and relive hers.
She went at the exact right time.  A month or so prior, President Obama announced plans to improve relations with Cuba. She got there before everything changed; a huge reason why I went when I did as well.  A huge reason why anyone, I imagine, goes to Cuba; to see the pristine country untouched by commercialism and progress.
But she also got there on the cusp of change.  Listening to her stories brought back a flood of excitement for my time in Cuba, and a sense of awe at how quickly things can shift, perhaps especially when The United States is involved.
The propaganda posters and billboards that I was so fond of photographing while traveling in Cuba were suddenly gone just a month or so after the news of the decision to establish a US embassy in Cuba.  American flags swiftly joined Cuban flags on poles outside of hotels and other establishments, something I never imagined possible, at least not so soon.
The few Cubans who were willing to speak with her, most still in their pre announcement fear, spoke a bit of hope and progress.  There was excitement over the eventual access to the world wide web and cell phones to call family members in the states, even the possibility of seeing loved ones again.

I’m glad I went when I did. (Don't get me wrong, I see all the benefits of where Cuba and the US are heading. I think it's about time really. And mind you, it hasn't gone unnoticed, the fact that all these changes mean we might one day be able to purchase that most precious of liquors, Havana Club, right here in my own country!) I got to see the Cuba we all think about when we think of Cuba.  I had a strong feeling things would be changing very soon and therefore bumped up my travel there, deciding I couldn’t afford to wait.  I’m glad I didn’t.  My friend got to see the beginning of a new era, and those who travel after her, will not see the Cuba she and I saw.

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum
I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.
While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singaporeor a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United Stateswhere I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.
If you are in Cubayou would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools
I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.
It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar-Disco Ayala
I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cubaand lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidadwho had also had it on their list of top sites.
Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 
It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall
Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidadand Cienfuegos in Cuba. 
I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.
After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving
I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cubawhere the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 
I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.
I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.
But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 
After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!
The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum
I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.
While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singapore or a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United States where I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.
If you are in Cuba you would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools
I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.
It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar- Disco Ayala
I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cuba and lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidad who had also had it on their list of top sites.
Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 
It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall
Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos in Cuba. 
I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.
After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving
I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cuba where the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 
I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.
I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.
But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 
After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!
The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Top 10 Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part I

10. Glorious Seafood
The seafood in Cubawas fresh, plentiful and cheap. I think I ate seafood at least once a day, often twice.  Lobster was under $10 US. I also had shrimp, swordfish, barracuda, clams and turtle. I suggest eating it prepared in your casa. I found it to be cheaper and better than a restaurant every time.

9. The all inclusive beach in Playa Girón
There are all inclusive resorts all around Cuba.  Lots of these resorts also offer day rates.  There are also beaches that do not have hotels attached to them which offer all inclusive day deals like the one I enjoyed for two days in Playa Girón. They are a great bargain and a great way to spend a lazy day.  The all inclusive rate includes all you can eat and drink. There is usually a lunch buffet spread of typical Cuban food.  The rate may also include various water sports equipment, like snorkeling gear and floats.  Chairs and shades are also provided. 

8. Ernest Hemingway
As I writer, I was thrilled to follow in the footsteps of such a great American author.  Throughout my trip I read, The Sun Also Rises, as well as a collection of his short stories.  There is something exciting about being in a place a writer was and reading his books there. In Havanathere are several places to visit and be reminded of the great author.  Ambos Mundos is the hotel Hemingway would stay at while he wrote two of his novels. You can pay $2 CUC to tour the room he stayed in, complete with the typewriter he used along with various newspaper articles about his Nobel prize.  La Floridita is the bar he would frequent and also where he made the white daiquiri famous. It is a bit of a tourist trap now, but still worth the visit. The daiquiris are out of this world.

7. Playa Blanca
Overall I was not impressed by the beaches in Cuba. It was quite disappointing. I do not know if it is because all of the good beaches are taken up by all the resorts which I did not visit, or if there just aren’t that many good beaches, perhaps due to the fact that 70% of the country island is limestone.
The one beach that stands out was the one I really had to work hard to get to. Playa Blanca in Baracoawas quite hidden and for this reason I saw no tourists the entire day I spent there. Always a bonus. I had to hike for about an hour along the more public beach which was littered and unappealing. I then crossed a rather questionable bridge and walked through a tiny little town I wasn’t sure I belonged in until I finally reached the very small beach that is Playa Blanca.
I was the only one there besides a small family who was cleaning the fish they’d just caught. I befriended the young girl who kept showing me the various sea creatures she’d found.
Beyond the beach a ways you can hire a guide to take you up into the caves and up to the highest point so that you can look out at the ocean and city below.  They were the first caves I saw, and even these had a small swimming hole within them. Playa Blanca was one of the best full days I spent in Cuba.

6. Casas in general and Dimitri and Hostel Moya in particular
Casas Particulares are where you stay when you’re a traveler in Cuba.  You stay with families who have an extra room or two.  Every room I stayed in had a private bathroom and usually two beds.  The rates were ridiculously cheap and you could often get breakfast and dinner for much cheaper and better than any restaurant. The average I paid, including a meal or two was about $20 CUC. 
The other and more important benefit to staying in casas is that you get to meet and interact with the family. You aren’t just served your meal and then left alone. Often, you eat with the family and get to know them. They might tell you secrets about where to go and what to see and where to avoid.  It was also awesome for practicing my Spanish.  (A possible downside for those who do not speak the language, as very few Cubans speak English or anything other than Spanish) I cannot say enough good things about these places and wish they were all over the world instead of hostels. 

My favorite casa was Hostel Moya (don’t be fooled by the name, it is most certainly NOT a hostel.)  Dimitri is the patriarch of this family casa. He was the most welcoming, kind host I’ve even had the pleasure of getting to know. It was he who got me to stay a few days longer than planned in Playa Girón. He was eager and willing to help with any excursion we might have wanted, including snorkeling, night fishing and various car trips. He drove us to Havanawhen we left.  He is also an excellent cook, cooking us the fresh fish he and his soon caught that day. I also had the privilege of meeting his adorable 1 ½ year old grandson Jonathan, and we became great buddies. 

Top 10 Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part I

10. Glorious Seafood
The seafood in Cuba was fresh, plentiful and cheap. I think I ate seafood at least once a day, often twice.  Lobster was under $10 US. I also had shrimp, swordfish, barracuda, clams and turtle. I suggest eating it prepared in your casa. I found it to be cheaper and better than a restaurant every time.

9. The all inclusive beach in Playa Girón
There are all inclusive resorts all around Cuba.  Lots of these resorts also offer day rates.  There are also beaches that do not have hotels attached to them which offer all inclusive day deals like the one I enjoyed for two days in Playa Girón. They are a great bargain and a great way to spend a lazy day.  The all inclusive rate includes all you can eat and drink. There is usually a lunch buffet spread of typical Cuban food.  The rate may also include various water sports equipment, like snorkeling gear and floats.  Chairs and shades are also provided. 

8. Ernest Hemingway
As I writer, I was thrilled to follow in the footsteps of such a great American author.  Throughout my trip I read, The Sun Also Rises, as well as a collection of his short stories.  There is something exciting about being in a place a writer was and reading his books there. In Havana there are several places to visit and be reminded of the great author.  Ambos Mundos is the hotel Hemingway would stay at while he wrote two of his novels. You can pay $2 CUC to tour the room he stayed in, complete with the typewriter he used along with various newspaper articles about his Nobel prize.  La Floridita is the bar he would frequent and also where he made the white daiquiri famous. It is a bit of a tourist trap now, but still worth the visit. The daiquiris are out of this world.

7. Playa Blanca
Overall I was not impressed by the beaches in Cuba. It was quite disappointing. I do not know if it is because all of the good beaches are taken up by all the resorts which I did not visit, or if there just aren’t that many good beaches, perhaps due to the fact that 70% of the country island is limestone.
The one beach that stands out was the one I really had to work hard to get to. Playa Blanca in Baracoa was quite hidden and for this reason I saw no tourists the entire day I spent there. Always a bonus. I had to hike for about an hour along the more public beach which was littered and unappealing. I then crossed a rather questionable bridge and walked through a tiny little town I wasn’t sure I belonged in until I finally reached the very small beach that is Playa Blanca.
I was the only one there besides a small family who was cleaning the fish they’d just caught. I befriended the young girl who kept showing me the various sea creatures she’d found.
Beyond the beach a ways you can hire a guide to take you up into the caves and up to the highest point so that you can look out at the ocean and city below.  They were the first caves I saw, and even these had a small swimming hole within them. Playa Blanca was one of the best full days I spent in Cuba.

6. Casas in general and Dimitri and Hostel Moya in particular
Casas Particulares are where you stay when you’re a traveler in Cuba.  You stay with families who have an extra room or two.  Every room I stayed in had a private bathroom and usually two beds.  The rates were ridiculously cheap and you could often get breakfast and dinner for much cheaper and better than any restaurant. The average I paid, including a meal or two was about $20 CUC. 
The other and more important benefit to staying in casas is that you get to meet and interact with the family. You aren’t just served your meal and then left alone. Often, you eat with the family and get to know them. They might tell you secrets about where to go and what to see and where to avoid.  It was also awesome for practicing my Spanish.  (A possible downside for those who do not speak the language, as very few Cubans speak English or anything other than Spanish) I cannot say enough good things about these places and wish they were all over the world instead of hostels. 

My favorite casa was Hostel Moya (don’t be fooled by the name, it is most certainly NOT a hostel.)  Dimitri is the patriarch of this family casa. He was the most welcoming, kind host I’ve even had the pleasure of getting to know. It was he who got me to stay a few days longer than planned in Playa Girón. He was eager and willing to help with any excursion we might have wanted, including snorkeling, night fishing and various car trips. He drove us to Havana when we left.  He is also an excellent cook, cooking us the fresh fish he and his soon caught that day. I also had the privilege of meeting his adorable 1 ½ year old grandson Jonathan, and we became great buddies. 

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.
So, I waited till I was in Mexicoagain to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cubato Mexicoeasily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexicodoesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.
I had the same concern in Mexicoas I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.
Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.
Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexicoahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  


Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cubaor Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did. 

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.
So, I waited till I was in Mexico again to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cuba to Mexico easily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexico doesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.
I had the same concern in Mexico as I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.
Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.
Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexico ahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  


Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cuba or Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did.