Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum

I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.

While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singaporeor a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United Stateswhere I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.

If you are in Cubayou would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools

I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.

It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar-Disco Ayala

I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cubaand lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidadwho had also had it on their list of top sites.

Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 

It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall

Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidadand Cienfuegos in Cuba. 

I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.

After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving

I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cubawhere the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 

I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.

I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.

But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 

After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!

The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Top Ten Highlights of my Cuban Adventure Part II

5. Havana Club Rum

I know this may not be a highlight for many, but for me, it was a huge part of the reason I wanted to travel to Cuba. I am a huge fan of rum, especially a Cuba Libre, and the fact that Havana Club is forbidden in The United States of America made it all the more enticing. I’ve tried a lot of rums to discover my favorites and Havana Club has remained the all elusive bottle amongst bottles.  It was time a discovered what all the hype was about.

While traveling in Cuba, I had the opportunity to drink a Cuba Libre in the country it is named after, kind of a dream come true; right up there with a Singapore Sling in Singapore or a Long Island Iced Tea in Long Island.  I also was able to drink the luscious liquor morning, noon and night if I chose. It was often more plentiful and available than water, even coming in convenient juice boxes for traveling on the go.  I visited the distillery where it is made and watched sugar cane pressed into juice to make the liquor.  I was also able to get three bottles back to the United States where I can indulge in it whenever I want which is sparingly because of the worry I may never get it again.

If you are in Cuba you would be remiss not to try some of the magical liquor, either in a famous Cuba Libre or an equally delicious true mojito.

4. Cave Pools

I explored several caves throughout my time in Cuba. Nearly every one had some sort of pool in it, some only the size of a small hot tub, others the length of a full size swimming pool.  I took full advantage of each underground pool I came upon.  And true to my traveling motto, I never regretted it.  The pools were often a mix of fresh and salt water coming in through the ocean and always refreshing, if a bit cool.

It is still amazing to me that a whole other world exists below ground.  Huge caves filled with secret passageways that lead to sparkling, clear lagoons and ponds. I felt a bit like a little child each time I entered the caves, like I was discovering something new and unknown for the first time. I would have never have known these caves existed were it not for a well trained guide.

3. Cave Bar- Disco Ayala

I had heard of the cave bar even in my planning for Cuba and lots throughout my trip.  I was excited to get to Trinidad and see what all the hype was about. I was able to go with the Germans I had met in the casa in Trinidad who had also had it on their list of top sites.

Disco Ayala was like nothing I could have imagined. It was huge and sprawling and entirely underground. Electricity was pumped in to provide lights and music, otherwise it would have been pitch black and a bit scary. As we sat at our table watching the live dancers, we were constantly reminded of the fact that we were in a cave by the dripping of water on us from the roof of cave. 

It was an experience like none other, one I highly recommend.  It is not often one gets to drink a Cuba Libre in a giant underground cave bar.

2. El Nicho Waterfall

Waterfalls are a lot easier to spot than caves, and I search for them wherever I travel. I’ve seen and swam in some pretty amazing ones, but none compare to El Nicho waterfall located between the cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos in Cuba. 

I went very early in the morning and avoided the crowds and the entrance fee. I hiked just a little ways through the park before I came to the first of the falls. I stood in awe. There were three falls falling into about seven natural pools.  It looked made up. I immediately stripped down to my bikini to plunge into the pools.  It was still a bit chilly that early in the morning, but again, you never regret a swim and this one was no different.  I wanted to take advantage of the solitude the early morning allowed me and enjoy the pools on my own.

After swimming all around, I got out and sat on a bench to do some writing near the falls. I was soon attached by mosquitoes, really the first of my trip, and decided to keep exploring the park. I took several paths that led along rivers and ended at more falls. Each one was a bit bigger and more impressive than the last.  These falls are absolutely a must see and I recommend going as early as you can as big tour groups come in hoards later in the morning.

1. Cenote Diving

I am a SCUBA diver and I’ve dived lots of places around the world, yet I hadn’t heard of cenote diving till a friend told me he’d done it in Mexico. I couldn’t even believe such a   thing existed and instantly knew I had to try it.  This was another reason I choose to visit Cuba where the country is 70% limestone and full of caves to dive in. 

I was pretty nervous and wasn’t even sure I would do it after my third ocean dive in Cuba. It was a little spur of the moment when I told my Dive Master I would in fact be going with them on the cenote dive, so much so that they didn’t have enough flashlights once I decided I’d go.

I’m not exactly claustrophobic, but I’m not a fan of being in places I can’t easily get out of- a cave dive was exactly this. Add a finite amount of air to breathe should I not be able to get out of said tiny space and it was enough to scare the daylights out of me. And with no flashlight, that was about right.

But I did it. And it was truly amazing.  I am a fan of new experiences and possess a keen awareness of how very few we get in our lifetime. Cave diving brought with it all the excitement and joy the first Christmas you can actually remember might.   It was absolutely out of this world. 

After descending, we had to pass through a very narrow tunnel to get to where the cave opened up. As we swam around, we aimed our flashlights up and down (the Dive Master gave me his) and looked at the various stalagmites and stalactites hanging from the top and bottom of the cave.  There were no fish to see, which was different than every other dive I’d done, but it didn’t matter, I was in a cave diving!

The best part was upon our return where from above a tiny sliver of sun shone through and penetrated all the way to the bottom of the 70 some foot cave.  It was spectacular. Each individual ray shone bright and deep like jewels sparkling. We each hung there for a long time just admiring it. It was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen and is something I will never forget.

When we ascended, I was speechless, underwater I was too of course, but above, when I finally could speak, I had no words.  If I can encourage divers to do anything, it would be to dive a cenote… doesn’t have to be in Cuba, but wherever you can.   

Cuban Blog Day #25 Coming Home With Rum

After a long 4:30 ambus ride to the airport from my hostel, I found myself in the duty free store of the Cancun International Airport.  I asked a store clerk one last time if it was legal to take Havana Club Rum back, this time trying to find some reassurance that what I was about to do was indeed legal and would actually work. I was told, for the third time now, that it would be no problem to take up to two bottles of Havana Club back to The United States of America. I wanted to believe them so badly.

So, I selected two beautiful bottles of seven-year Havana Club and made my purchase using up all of my Mexican pesos and having to use only $1.47 of American money. I was quite proud of this, especially after returning from Cuba with about $30 US worth of CUC I will probably never be able to use.

The bottles were in a stapled duty free shopping bag that I would carry onto the plane with me. I was glad to have them with me and not in a checked bag somewhere, but I was worried what would happen once I got to the Houstonairport and had to go through customs. 

During my entire time in CubaI was worried about returning to the USand getting found out.  You see, it is technically not illegal to travel to Cuba. Thank god! However, it is illegal to spend money there; a bit of a catch 22.  So, while I took all the necessary precautious and made sure my passport was never stamped, (I had assumed that customs officials knew not to do this upon seeing an America passport, but had I not asked them every time not to stamp it, I would have had quite a few Cuban stamps in my passport,) I knew that returning with a bunch of bottles of Havana Club and 30 some Cuban cigars was surely going to put them on the case.

I took solace in the fact that I bought all but one bottle of rum in Cancun.  Even though the bottles have a sticker that clearly reads “Product of Cuba” on the front, I reasoned that the fact that I’d purchased them in Cancunand not Cubameant I hadn’t technically spent money there.  I also rationalized that all sorts of Americans travel to Mexicoand try to bring back Havana Club not even realizing that it wasn’t Mexican.  Right?

Of course, then I had the cigars to worry about. I couldn’t find any way to rationalize those away. As I sat in the concourse waiting area, I thought about the cigars and the other bottle of rum I’d bought in Cubahiding within my checked bag.  They would surly be the reason I would be carted off to jail upon my arrival in The United States. What had I done?

The flight to the Houston Airport was filled with wild imaginings of security guards waiting for me as soon as I exited the plane. I saw them handcuff me and immediately take my precious bottles of Havana Club.  I envisioned my life in jail, only memories of Cubato keep me company. 

When we finally landed, I took a deep breathe and exited the plane with everyone else.  We all filed through the corridors making our way to customs.  I was a bit in between groups and therefore arrived to where the line would be more or less alone.  I was dumbfounded- first, at the lack of the horrible zigzagging line I’d come to expect. It was my first entry into any country where there wasn’t any sort of line. Next, it was impossible not to notice the absence of custom workers. What was going on?  Instead, I saw row upon row of machines. 

I walked up to one of the machines and followed the directions written on it. I slide my passport, credit card like, through the machine. I looked up into the tiny camera and smiled. That was it. The shopping bag full of my bottles of rum was firmly in my hand as I walked toward the exit where there was just one worker at the desk. I stopped there. He asked if my paper had a star on it. I looked, said no. He said that was all then and waved me on.

I continued on in disbelief. Could it really have been that easy? I walked passed another exit with another man at a desk. This was it, I told myself. He’s going to check my duty free shopping bag, and I’m done.  He checked it and gave me hell about having two bottles and not the one he said was the limit. I hurriedly explained that the duty free shop employee had most certainly assured me that two was the limit. The guy smiled at me, advised me that next time the limit is only one (when did this change?) and told me to carry on.

Oh my god!  I was in The United States of America with two bottles of Cuban rum! I had done it! But, there was one more test. I still had to get my bags and go through security. Upon retrieving my checked bag and checking on the other bottle of rum and cigars packed within, I arranged the bottles inside for them to continue on to Denver. I hurriedly packed them in as best I could and waited through the security line. There was nothing more I could do now.

The flight from Houstonto Denver was calmer. I was already in The US and was not as worried about the fines and the jail time anymore. I was, however, worried that the bottles make break or be confiscated upon their arrival in Denver. 

When I arrived and finally got my bag, I immediately checked inside.  Much to my surprise, there was a piece of paper on top of all my clothes informing me that my bag had been checked by TSA. I quickly searched through my bag to check for all the bottles and cigars.  Everything was just where I’d left it.

 Really TSA? What exactly were you searching for and how exactly didn’t you find it? 

Traveling Tip #26 They’re not looking for rum

Aside from getting the rum back and finding the TSAnotice in my bag, there are a few other adventures in smuggling that help me confirm what I’m about to advise, but take this advice at your own risk. I am fairly certain that TSA is NOT looking for rum, or cigars are any other paraphernalia you might try to bring across a border.  And, if that is what they are looking for, all I can say is, they’re doing a terrible job training their agents. I’m fairly certain they are looking for more important things such as bombs and weapons. You know, the things that actually matter and would help keep us safe if found.  For this I am grateful.  So go ahead… bring me back a bottle of Havana Club next time you’re in Cuba. 

Cuban Blog Day #25 Coming Home With Rum

After a long 4:30 am bus ride to the airport from my hostel, I found myself in the duty free store of the Cancun International Airport.  I asked a store clerk one last time if it was legal to take Havana Club Rum back, this time trying to find some reassurance that what I was about to do was indeed legal and would actually work. I was told, for the third time now, that it would be no problem to take up to two bottles of Havana Club back to The United States of America. I wanted to believe them so badly.

So, I selected two beautiful bottles of seven-year Havana Club and made my purchase using up all of my Mexican pesos and having to use only $1.47 of American money. I was quite proud of this, especially after returning from Cuba with about $30 US worth of CUC I will probably never be able to use.

The bottles were in a stapled duty free shopping bag that I would carry onto the plane with me. I was glad to have them with me and not in a checked bag somewhere, but I was worried what would happen once I got to the Houston airport and had to go through customs. 

During my entire time in Cuba I was worried about returning to the US and getting found out.  You see, it is technically not illegal to travel to Cuba. Thank god! However, it is illegal to spend money there; a bit of a catch 22.  So, while I took all the necessary precautious and made sure my passport was never stamped, (I had assumed that customs officials knew not to do this upon seeing an America passport, but had I not asked them every time not to stamp it, I would have had quite a few Cuban stamps in my passport,) I knew that returning with a bunch of bottles of Havana Club and 30 some Cuban cigars was surely going to put them on the case.

I took solace in the fact that I bought all but one bottle of rum in Cancun.  Even though the bottles have a sticker that clearly reads “Product of Cuba” on the front, I reasoned that the fact that I’d purchased them in Cancun and not Cuba meant I hadn’t technically spent money there.  I also rationalized that all sorts of Americans travel to Mexico and try to bring back Havana Club not even realizing that it wasn’t Mexican.  Right?

Of course, then I had the cigars to worry about. I couldn’t find any way to rationalize those away. As I sat in the concourse waiting area, I thought about the cigars and the other bottle of rum I’d bought in Cuba hiding within my checked bag.  They would surly be the reason I would be carted off to jail upon my arrival in The United States. What had I done?

The flight to the Houston Airport was filled with wild imaginings of security guards waiting for me as soon as I exited the plane. I saw them handcuff me and immediately take my precious bottles of Havana Club.  I envisioned my life in jail, only memories of Cuba to keep me company. 

When we finally landed, I took a deep breathe and exited the plane with everyone else.  We all filed through the corridors making our way to customs.  I was a bit in between groups and therefore arrived to where the line would be more or less alone.  I was dumbfounded- first, at the lack of the horrible zigzagging line I’d come to expect. It was my first entry into any country where there wasn’t any sort of line. Next, it was impossible not to notice the absence of custom workers. What was going on?  Instead, I saw row upon row of machines. 

I walked up to one of the machines and followed the directions written on it. I slide my passport, credit card like, through the machine. I looked up into the tiny camera and smiled. That was it. The shopping bag full of my bottles of rum was firmly in my hand as I walked toward the exit where there was just one worker at the desk. I stopped there. He asked if my paper had a star on it. I looked, said no. He said that was all then and waved me on.

I continued on in disbelief. Could it really have been that easy? I walked passed another exit with another man at a desk. This was it, I told myself. He’s going to check my duty free shopping bag, and I’m done.  He checked it and gave me hell about having two bottles and not the one he said was the limit. I hurriedly explained that the duty free shop employee had most certainly assured me that two was the limit. The guy smiled at me, advised me that next time the limit is only one (when did this change?) and told me to carry on.

Oh my god!  I was in The United States of America with two bottles of Cuban rum! I had done it! But, there was one more test. I still had to get my bags and go through security. Upon retrieving my checked bag and checking on the other bottle of rum and cigars packed within, I arranged the bottles inside for them to continue on to Denver. I hurriedly packed them in as best I could and waited through the security line. There was nothing more I could do now.

The flight from Houston to Denver was calmer. I was already in The US and was not as worried about the fines and the jail time anymore. I was, however, worried that the bottles make break or be confiscated upon their arrival in Denver. 

When I arrived and finally got my bag, I immediately checked inside.  Much to my surprise, there was a piece of paper on top of all my clothes informing me that my bag had been checked by TSA. I quickly searched through my bag to check for all the bottles and cigars.  Everything was just where I’d left it.

 Really TSA? What exactly were you searching for and how exactly didn’t you find it? 

Traveling Tip #26 They’re not looking for rum

Aside from getting the rum back and finding the TSA notice in my bag, there are a few other adventures in smuggling that help me confirm what I’m about to advise, but take this advice at your own risk. I am fairly certain that TSA is NOT looking for rum, or cigars are any other paraphernalia you might try to bring across a border.  And, if that is what they are looking for, all I can say is, they’re doing a terrible job training their agents. I’m fairly certain they are looking for more important things such as bombs and weapons. You know, the things that actually matter and would help keep us safe if found.  For this I am grateful.  So go ahead… bring me back a bottle of Havana Club next time you’re in Cuba. 

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.

So, I waited till I was in Mexicoagain to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cubato Mexicoeasily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexicodoesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.

I had the same concern in Mexicoas I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.

Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.

Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexicoahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  

Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cubaor Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did. 

Cuban Blog Day #24 Send at Your Own Risk

I had planned a full day in Cancun, Mexico in the hopes of finding a way to send back all the delicious Havana Club rum and Cuban Cigars I’d purchased. I also wanted to be sure I’d actually make the flight since the flights were not connecting.  Because of the embargo on Cuba, The United States has never had the pure joy that is Havana Club on the shelves of any liquor store. My original plan to get my spoils back was to find a UPS or DHL and try to send it all from there.  There were, in fact, DHL’s all over Cuba, but I began to worry that I might spend all the money to buy and send the rum, and it might never actually make it home.

So, I waited till I was in Mexico again to try and send it all back. I had gotten one bottle of rum back from Cuba to Mexico easily, though I hadn’t anticipated this being a problem.  Mexico doesn’t have a ridiculous embargo with Cuba.

I had the same concern in Mexico as I did in Cuba. I just didn’t want to risk losing it all if it never showed up at the address it was meant for.  I suppose I’ve had a lot of problems with mail never coming, or being searched, or being stolen, and I was wary of the whole process.

Instead, I decided to wait and try my luck at the duty free store in the Cancun airport the next day. I had asked upon my arrival both times in the Cancun airport whether I could take the rum back to The United States. Each time I was told ‘yes, no problem,’ but again I was wary.  The language was a barrier, and I just couldn’t be sure they really knew why I was worried it would be a problem.  But in desperate times, I began to believe them. Surely they knew about the embargo (though I must tell you, throughout my travels and my recounting of them afterwards, I have been very surprised at how many people had no idea about it.) But surely other Americans, even just coming from Cancun, had tried to purchase a few bottles of Havana Club to bring back. This was my rational anyway.

Once I decided that I wouldn’t be sending it through the mail, I had a whole day in Mexico ahead of me. It was raining in Cancun on and off most of the day. I had wanted to try to get to the beach, but that wasn’t happening. Instead, I spent most of the day on the covered rooftop catching up on my blog and enjoying the internet.  I walked to the plaza for lunch and dinner and people watched.  I went to bed early because I had to be on a 4:30 am bus to the airport for my flight back home. I was already nervous about getting the rum back safely.  

Traveling Tip #27  I can’t be sure because I never tried it from Cuba or Mexico, but I would be wary of mail services abroad in general. While living abroad, I have had packages never arrive, searched and stolen.  I did not want to risk this with my most precious souvenir, rum. It’s a personal choice, but I decided not to risk it, and perhaps take an even riskier route, but with higher returns if it all worked out. Stay tuned for the next blog to find out if it did. 

Cuban Blog Day #21 It's Nobody's Birthday

My alarm didn’t go off today, so I was lucky the Germans were their usual late. We ate breakfast quickly and piled into Dimitri’s car to drive the 1 ½ to 2 hour drive to Havana.  I was grateful to be in a car and not a bus and therefore get there much quicker. I slept most of the way there.

Dimitri took us to his cousin’s casa which was in the heart of HavanaVieja (Old Havana). The Germans had been to Havana in the beginning of their trip, and they were very excited about our location, as was I.  We were also quite happy with the price, which though it was the most expensive casa of my whole trip at $25 CUC with breakfast, was still quite cheap for the big city.

I said a sad goodbye to Dimitri and got a few pictures with him. I thanked him for his kind hospitality and all of his help. I told him I would tell the world about him and his casa. He called me sister and bid me farewell.

Inside, after settling in, Dimitri’s cousin welcomed us with a shot of rum elixir. None of us knew what it was exactly. We also were a little apprehensive about taking a shot at 10 in the morning, but we were in Havanaand it would have been rude to say no, right? I was not too fond of it. It was quite strong and not at all like rum.

I made plans to meet up later with the Germans for dinner and took off toward Parque Centralwhich was just around the corner from the casa.  From there I hopped on a hop-on hop-off bus. I am usually not a fan of these, but given my limited time in HavanaI thought this would be the best way to see as much of the city as I could. I took a seat on the top of the open air double decker bus and was off.

We drove by the malecón (the boardwalk) which was much longer than I expected and seemed to go the length of the city. It was crowded with people playing music, walking, or simply sitting and people or wave watching. The ocean crashed against the wall of the malecón spraying passersby.  We passed by the famous Che building and took pictures. It was crazy to see all of the different buildings, some of them in a state of disrepair having been left to crumble, scaffolding still in its place from when the embargo took effect, trees growing up and around the building and its scaffolding. Time stopped.  Other buildings were grand and impressive. Each were scattered among one another. This is why you go to Cuba.

I came back to the park and stopped for lunch.  On my way to a restaurant, I was stopped by a curious couple and their baby.  They chatted with me and informed me that The Buena Vista Social Club was having a huge festival for their 15^th anniversary. I was super excited and wanted to know where it was.  They said they were going that way anyway and told me they would take me there. I thought I’d go find out where it was and then come back after lunch.  We walked and talked, and they convinced me to stop into a bar which they claimed had been one of Hemmingway’s old haunts.  We drank Cuba Libres and I was told it was the wife’s birthday. We celebrated; until the bill came.  It was $20 CUC for three drinks. I didn’t even know how that was possible. I knew Havanawas more expensive than the rest of the country, but this was outrageous. I wouldn’t pay that much for drinks in the states.  To add to it all, the Cubans expected me to pay the entire thing!

I paid and got out of there as quickly as I could. I tried to wrap my head around such an elaborate hustle and just couldn’t see going to such lengths just to get a drink and bring folks to a particular bar.  When I told the Germans about this, their mouths hung open. They finished the story for me; the child, the birthday, The Buena Vista Social Club, every last detail was the same. It had happened to them the first time they were here.  Unbelievable!

After lunch, I got back on the bus and went to the place I had been dreaming about since planning my trip- The Havana Club Factory. I took a tour and learned all about the rum I’d coveted for years.  At the end we had shots of 7 year rum. I sat in the bar and had a Cuba Libre while listening to live salsa music. I hopped back on the bus, and we stopped at a giant craft market that I would return to the next day when I had more money.

I met the Germans back at the casa, and we drank Cuba Libres on our balcony until we walked to dinner. We ate a really nice meal in a fancy restaurant, but it was still very cheap. The Germans had been there before. After, we walked around Havana Vieja and took in the night scene.

Traveling Tip # 24 It’s nobody’s birthday- I generally pride myself on being especially keen at spotting the hustle. This one blew me away in its attention to detail and the fact that it had worked on at least two different unsuspecting travelers. So, if you are ever in Cuba and someone tells you 1) it’s their birthday and lets get shots at this great bar Hemmingway used to hang out in, and/or 2) The Buena Vista Social Club is in town, don’t buy it. 

Cuban Blog Day #21 It's Nobody's Birthday

My alarm didn’t go off today, so I was lucky the Germans were their usual late. We ate breakfast quickly and piled into Dimitri’s car to drive the 1 ½ to 2 hour drive to Havana.  I was grateful to be in a car and not a bus and therefore get there much quicker. I slept most of the way there.

Dimitri took us to his cousin’s casa which was in the heart of Havana Vieja (Old Havana). The Germans had been to Havana in the beginning of their trip, and they were very excited about our location, as was I.  We were also quite happy with the price, which though it was the most expensive casa of my whole trip at $25 CUC with breakfast, was still quite cheap for the big city.

I said a sad goodbye to Dimitri and got a few pictures with him. I thanked him for his kind hospitality and all of his help. I told him I would tell the world about him and his casa. He called me sister and bid me farewell.

Inside, after settling in, Dimitri’s cousin welcomed us with a shot of rum elixir. None of us knew what it was exactly. We also were a little apprehensive about taking a shot at 10 in the morning, but we were in Havana and it would have been rude to say no, right? I was not too fond of it. It was quite strong and not at all like rum.

I made plans to meet up later with the Germans for dinner and took off toward Parque Central which was just around the corner from the casa.  From there I hopped on a hop-on hop-off bus. I am usually not a fan of these, but given my limited time in Havana I thought this would be the best way to see as much of the city as I could. I took a seat on the top of the open air double decker bus and was off.

We drove by the malecón (the boardwalk) which was much longer than I expected and seemed to go the length of the city. It was crowded with people playing music, walking, or simply sitting and people or wave watching. The ocean crashed against the wall of the malecón spraying passersby.  We passed by the famous Che building and took pictures. It was crazy to see all of the different buildings, some of them in a state of disrepair having been left to crumble, scaffolding still in its place from when the embargo took effect, trees growing up and around the building and its scaffolding. Time stopped.  Other buildings were grand and impressive. Each were scattered among one another. This is why you go to Cuba.

I came back to the park and stopped for lunch.  On my way to a restaurant, I was stopped by a curious couple and their baby.  They chatted with me and informed me that The Buena Vista Social Club was having a huge festival for their 15^th anniversary. I was super excited and wanted to know where it was.  They said they were going that way anyway and told me they would take me there. I thought I’d go find out where it was and then come back after lunch.  We walked and talked, and they convinced me to stop into a bar which they claimed had been one of Hemmingway’s old haunts.  We drank Cuba Libres and I was told it was the wife’s birthday. We celebrated; until the bill came.  It was $20 CUC for three drinks. I didn’t even know how that was possible. I knew Havana was more expensive than the rest of the country, but this was outrageous. I wouldn’t pay that much for drinks in the states.  To add to it all, the Cubans expected me to pay the entire thing!

I paid and got out of there as quickly as I could. I tried to wrap my head around such an elaborate hustle and just couldn’t see going to such lengths just to get a drink and bring folks to a particular bar.  When I told the Germans about this, their mouths hung open. They finished the story for me; the child, the birthday, The Buena Vista Social Club, every last detail was the same. It had happened to them the first time they were here.  Unbelievable!

After lunch, I got back on the bus and went to the place I had been dreaming about since planning my trip- The Havana Club Factory. I took a tour and learned all about the rum I’d coveted for years.  At the end we had shots of 7 year rum. I sat in the bar and had a Cuba Libre while listening to live salsa music. I hopped back on the bus, and we stopped at a giant craft market that I would return to the next day when I had more money.

I met the Germans back at the casa, and we drank Cuba Libres on our balcony until we walked to dinner. We ate a really nice meal in a fancy restaurant, but it was still very cheap. The Germans had been there before. After, we walked around Havana Vieja and took in the night scene.

Traveling Tip # 24 It’s nobody’s birthday- I generally pride myself on being especially keen at spotting the hustle. This one blew me away in its attention to detail and the fact that it had worked on at least two different unsuspecting travelers. So, if you are ever in Cuba and someone tells you 1) it’s their birthday and lets get shots at this great bar Hemmingway used to hang out in, and/or 2) The Buena Vista Social Club is in town, don’t buy it. 

Day two- I Know it's Hot, but.... Take Warm Clothing

After a night spent in Cancun, Mexico (the mandatory ‘stopover’ on the way to Cuba), I took a $6 bus ride back to the airport to fly to Havana, Cuba. In line to check in, I was approached by a worker asking if I had our visa.  My heart sank a bit, thinking I had messed up somehow and not gotten a visa when I should have.  Was my plan ruined because of this oversight?  No, turns out you just have to spend $25 on a visa right there.  This would be what the custom officials in Cubawould stamp instead of our passports.  It would remain loose in my passport and would be something I needed to hold onto throughout my travels.  I was hoping it would be my keepsake from the trip, the only tangible, official proof that I made it, but it was taken from me when I left Cubathree weeks later

I got a little emotional at the check in counter when I realized the tickets were for real and we would soon be flying to Cuba. Everything was happening and my dream of getting to the most forbidden country in the world for United Statescitizens was coming true.

I had been told to get to the airport 3 hours ahead of my departure. Several people had  told me this, and so I was 2.5 hours early which was completely unnecessary. I spent two hours waiting around for my flight to board. I checked out the duty free shops, and I got my first view of Havana Club. I asked three different workers about bringing Mexican bought Havana Club into the US, with very mixed responses. Some said no, absolutely not, others said, sure no problem. Ugh! I also found up to 15 year Flor De Cana rum. Always a back up plan.

The ride over to Cubawas short and filled with free rum. (Oh the joys and perks of other countries.) I sat by the window and watched the island appear as we flew. Again, I let a few tears go as I realized how close I was to the country I had coveted for so long.

Once off the airplane and on land, I made my way to customs. I was immediately singled out and asked questions about what I was doing there, what my intentions were and what my job was. Again, my heart sank. Had I really made it this far only to be turned away once setting foot in the country?

They took me aside, out of the line, to ask more questions.  They asked me where I was going, what I would do there, if I had any electronics, how much money I had with me, what my job was (again.) I asked if there was a problem. He wrote it all down, very unofficial like, on a piece of notebook paper. Would that be filed somewhere, I wondered or simply thrown away at days end?  Finally, he said I could go.

When it was my turn to speak to the customs agent, I made sure to tell him not to stamp my passport, though I don’t think it was necessary.  I admired my visa with its brand new Cuban stamp while I waited for my bags. It was gorgeous.

Upon exiting the airport, I was again stopped.  I wondered if it was simply because I was the one gringa who actually spoke English. They gave me no explanation, simply told me to wait. They took my passport. I did my best to keep it in sight. They told me to wait here, and then there, never telling me why and what any of this was about. When finally someone came, she asked the exact same questions the man had earlier, and wrote my answers down on an even less official looking paper than before.   I told her this, very frustrated at this point. She gave me no response.  I had thought they’d search my bag as I watched several other bags being searched while I waited. But luckily, I avoided this and my bags simply went through another x-ray machine and I was off.

Finally, I made our way to the bus terminal to take a 12 hour over night bus to Santiago De Cuba.  As I handed off my luggage to be stored under the bus the worked told me it would be very cold on the bus. I thanked him for the info and assured him that I had a sweatshirt in my backpack.  I knew this about busses abroad. I’d heard it before I left for Colombiaand was so grateful for the information once I rode on the first overly air conditioned bus there.

Not even an hour into the ride, I put my long sleeve shirt and hoodie on. I rolled my jeans all the way down. I ached for socks. I contemplated getting my towel out of my bag when next we stopped.  Soon the hood of my sweatshirt was on and scrunched around my face.   It was going to be a long, cold ride.

 

 Traveling tip #2- Take one change of very warm clothes. These are usually the clothes I wear on the plane because I get quite cold on them too, and then you don’t have to pack those clothes taking up space.  A pair of long pants that can be rolled up to the knees for once you arrive in your warm destination. A tank top under a long sleeve, under a hoodie. Socks.   A towel. Or, better yet, steal a blanket from the plane. This will not generally happen on a US flight, as they are way too stingy to willy nilly give out blankets anymore. But on the flight from Cancun to Cubathere were several blankets sitting in the first class section. I meant to grab one. Airplane blankets are the best because they are thin and fold up tiny and are easy to fit into your carry on back pack.  You can then use the blanket for the rest of your travels, for the freezing cold busses, for the beach, for picnics.

Day two- I Know it's Hot, but.... Take Warm Clothing

After a night spent in Cancun, Mexico (the mandatory ‘stopover’ on the way to Cuba), I took a $6 bus ride back to the airport to fly to Havana, Cuba. In line to check in, I was approached by a worker asking if I had our visa.  My heart sank a bit, thinking I had messed up somehow and not gotten a visa when I should have.  Was my plan ruined because of this oversight?  No, turns out you just have to spend $25 on a visa right there.  This would be what the custom officials in Cuba would stamp instead of our passports.  It would remain loose in my passport and would be something I needed to hold onto throughout my travels.  I was hoping it would be my keepsake from the trip, the only tangible, official proof that I made it, but it was taken from me when I left Cuba three weeks later

I got a little emotional at the check in counter when I realized the tickets were for real and we would soon be flying to Cuba. Everything was happening and my dream of getting to the most forbidden country in the world for United States citizens was coming true.

I had been told to get to the airport 3 hours ahead of my departure. Several people had  told me this, and so I was 2.5 hours early which was completely unnecessary. I spent two hours waiting around for my flight to board. I checked out the duty free shops, and I got my first view of Havana Club. I asked three different workers about bringing Mexican bought Havana Club into the US, with very mixed responses. Some said no, absolutely not, others said, sure no problem. Ugh! I also found up to 15 year Flor De Cana rum. Always a back up plan.

The ride over to Cuba was short and filled with free rum. (Oh the joys and perks of other countries.) I sat by the window and watched the island appear as we flew. Again, I let a few tears go as I realized how close I was to the country I had coveted for so long.

Once off the airplane and on land, I made my way to customs. I was immediately singled out and asked questions about what I was doing there, what my intentions were and what my job was. Again, my heart sank. Had I really made it this far only to be turned away once setting foot in the country?

They took me aside, out of the line, to ask more questions.  They asked me where I was going, what I would do there, if I had any electronics, how much money I had with me, what my job was (again.) I asked if there was a problem. He wrote it all down, very unofficial like, on a piece of notebook paper. Would that be filed somewhere, I wondered or simply thrown away at days end?  Finally, he said I could go.

When it was my turn to speak to the customs agent, I made sure to tell him not to stamp my passport, though I don’t think it was necessary.  I admired my visa with its brand new Cuban stamp while I waited for my bags. It was gorgeous.

Upon exiting the airport, I was again stopped.  I wondered if it was simply because I was the one gringa who actually spoke English. They gave me no explanation, simply told me to wait. They took my passport. I did my best to keep it in sight. They told me to wait here, and then there, never telling me why and what any of this was about. When finally someone came, she asked the exact same questions the man had earlier, and wrote my answers down on an even less official looking paper than before.   I told her this, very frustrated at this point. She gave me no response.  I had thought they’d search my bag as I watched several other bags being searched while I waited. But luckily, I avoided this and my bags simply went through another x-ray machine and I was off.

Finally, I made our way to the bus terminal to take a 12 hour over night bus to Santiago De Cuba.  As I handed off my luggage to be stored under the bus the worked told me it would be very cold on the bus. I thanked him for the info and assured him that I had a sweatshirt in my backpack.  I knew this about busses abroad. I’d heard it before I left for Colombia and was so grateful for the information once I rode on the first overly air conditioned bus there.

Not even an hour into the ride, I put my long sleeve shirt and hoodie on. I rolled my jeans all the way down. I ached for socks. I contemplated getting my towel out of my bag when next we stopped.  Soon the hood of my sweatshirt was on and scrunched around my face.   It was going to be a long, cold ride.

 

 Traveling tip #2- Take one change of very warm clothes. These are usually the clothes I wear on the plane because I get quite cold on them too, and then you don’t have to pack those clothes taking up space.  A pair of long pants that can be rolled up to the knees for once you arrive in your warm destination. A tank top under a long sleeve, under a hoodie. Socks.   A towel. Or, better yet, steal a blanket from the plane. This will not generally happen on a US flight, as they are way too stingy to willy nilly give out blankets anymore. But on the flight from Cancun to Cuba there were several blankets sitting in the first class section. I meant to grab one. Airplane blankets are the best because they are thin and fold up tiny and are easy to fit into your carry on back pack.  You can then use the blanket for the rest of your travels, for the freezing cold busses, for the beach, for picnics.

N is for Nicaragua

This month I am participation in a blog challenge. I will write 26 blogs. Each title will begin with each of the 26 letters of the alphabet. My idea is to write about different countries and cities I’ve visited and share a specific memory experienced there.  I am now over halfway finished! Such an optimist! Hope you enjoy!

 

This post shall be my homage to the best rum in the world, Flor De Cana.  It would be an ode to rum if I knew how to write one.  I actually first tasted Flor De Cana while living in Honduras.  At the time I believed it was Honduran. Later I learned that while Hondurashas its own rum, they prefer the Nicaraguan rum. Rather a no brainer there, Flor being worlds better than any of the others I came across in all of Central America.

And so it was that when I left Hondurasto go traveling south for a few months, I made it a goal to get to the Flor De Cana Distillery.  Having drunk the beautiful dark liquor for the better part of a year, I was anxious to see where and how it was made.  Chichigalpa is not exactly on the beaten path and supposedly you needed to make reservation to take a tour.  I tried and failed to do that.

Instead, I simply showed up, jumping off a bus on its way to Managua, in a very tiny, dusty town.  The distillery was hard to miss, it being the tallest building among one story shacks.  I walked to the distillery and was grateful to see another gringo already there. This was a good sign. An even better sign was when he told me he had, in fact, made a reservation. Good on you kid! Thanks! It was easy enough to join his tour, as he was the only one anyway. (A note to readers- My luck is not usually this good when I travel, sadly, but somehow, when it comes to rum, it is. I think it might have something to do with our mutual respect for one another.)

The tour was in Spanish. Mine was not all that great at the time, though I did my best to follow and understand.  But, really, it didn’t matter much. I saw the rum in the giant vats, I saw the barrels and the processing line, and in the end, I tasted every year up to 50!!!!! I suppose if I am to be honest, that is the reason I came.  It was glorious.

Since returning to the states, I have been singing Flor’s praising and introducing everyone I can to the lovely liquor.  I am surprised, though grateful, to find it in a select few liquor stores and even some bars around town now.  The secret is out folks. If you’re not drinking it, you’re wasting your time.

N is for Nicaragua

This month I am participation in a blog challenge. I will write 26 blogs. Each title will begin with each of the 26 letters of the alphabet. My idea is to write about different countries and cities I’ve visited and share a specific memory experienced there.  I am now over halfway finished! Such an optimist! Hope you enjoy!

 

This post shall be my homage to the best rum in the world, Flor De Cana.  It would be an ode to rum if I knew how to write one.  I actually first tasted Flor De Cana while living in Honduras.  At the time I believed it was Honduran. Later I learned that while Honduras has its own rum, they prefer the Nicaraguan rum. Rather a no brainer there, Flor being worlds better than any of the others I came across in all of Central America.

And so it was that when I left Honduras to go traveling south for a few months, I made it a goal to get to the Flor De Cana Distillery.  Having drunk the beautiful dark liquor for the better part of a year, I was anxious to see where and how it was made.  Chichigalpa is not exactly on the beaten path and supposedly you needed to make reservation to take a tour.  I tried and failed to do that.

Instead, I simply showed up, jumping off a bus on its way to Managua, in a very tiny, dusty town.  The distillery was hard to miss, it being the tallest building among one story shacks.  I walked to the distillery and was grateful to see another gringo already there. This was a good sign. An even better sign was when he told me he had, in fact, made a reservation. Good on you kid! Thanks! It was easy enough to join his tour, as he was the only one anyway. (A note to readers- My luck is not usually this good when I travel, sadly, but somehow, when it comes to rum, it is. I think it might have something to do with our mutual respect for one another.)

The tour was in Spanish. Mine was not all that great at the time, though I did my best to follow and understand.  But, really, it didn’t matter much. I saw the rum in the giant vats, I saw the barrels and the processing line, and in the end, I tasted every year up to 50!!!!! I suppose if I am to be honest, that is the reason I came.  It was glorious.

Since returning to the states, I have been singing Flor’s praising and introducing everyone I can to the lovely liquor.  I am surprised, though grateful, to find it in a select few liquor stores and even some bars around town now.  The secret is out folks. If you’re not drinking it, you’re wasting your time.