After a wonderful day diving, it was time to get moving again.
We drove for about an hour along the coast in the early
morning. I could get used to these views every morning I thought to myself as
we made our way south. This was a little
backward in my planning, but made sense as far as the Viazul bus route I would
eventually be taking from Trinidad .
I arrived at El Nicho a bit before 8 am . The park was
empty and no one was at the gate, so I walked right through without paying an
entrance fee. The trail was well marked
and soon I was at the most beautiful, wide, massive waterfall I’d ever seen. It was so impressive I stood just staring at
it as water sprayed me.
I walked a bit more along the trail and came to the most extraordinary
all natural pool I’ve ever seen. It was a bit chilly that early in the morning,
but I didn’t care. I stripped down to my bikini and got in. (Re: travel motto-
You never regret a swim.) The pool had a much smaller fall falling into it and
had three or four smaller pools. I swam all around taking in the view from
every vantage point.
I got out and sat on a bench near the pool thankful for my
early arrival and the solitude it gave me. I wrote in my journal surrounded by
the sounds of the water falling. It would have been perfect were it not for the
mosquitoes, the first I’d really encountered my whole trip.
I walked along the trails veering off here and there to see
where one might lead. It was beautiful and starting to warm up. I walked back to the entrance and found out
there were more trails across the street. I walked down those and discovered
even more giant falls. At one point I was at the top of one looking down to the
crashing water below. El Nicho was
certainly another highlight of my trip.
I returned to my taxi driver who had been waiting, and we
continued on to Trinidad about an hour more. I found a casa
across from the casa my driver
recommended when la dueña wouldn’t go
down in price from $25 CUC to $20. This casa was on Trip Advisor and was by far
the best and cleanest of all. It did however lack a bit of the personal touch
I’d grown fond of along the way. It even
had little soaps and shampoos, a treat I had forgotten about during my time in Cuba .
I kept them to give away. I got the casa for
$20 CUC including breakfast, much to the chagrin of the Germans I would meet a
bit later.
After settling in my room, I went walking, first to find a cadeca to exchange money for the third
time of my trip. I was happy to realize I was keeping on track with my money,
even staying a bit under what I had anticipated per week, even with diving, my
biggest expense of the trip. Then, I got lunch, I splurged a bit, perhaps due
to the realization that I was under my expected budget, and ordered the
lobster, which of course was hardly a splurge compared to American prices at
$12 CUC. I shared my meal with a very
friendly bird who quite enjoyed the cucumbers from my cucumber and tomato
salad.
I walked around the city a bit after lunch, bought a bottle
of rum and some Tukola and headed
back to my casa to sit on the rooftop
and write postcards. Soon the Germans,
Eva and Niels exited their room. They were quite friendly and told me of their
day at the tobacco factory. We ended up
discussing our plans for the next few days. They too were heading to Playa
Girón and Eva was looking for a dive buddy.
Perfect.
Their plan for the evening was to check out the cave bar
that I’d heard about since planning this trip. They invited me along. We went
to a couple other bars along the way just checking out the scene in Trinidad ,
including one bar where we had our own private rooftop balcony with a great
view of the city. Then we headed for the cave bar, Disco Ayala.
Words cannot describe what my eyes saw. It was beyond
anything I could have imagined and then some.
It was the biggest cave I’ve ever been in and makes me debate whether I
should call it a ‘cave bar’ or a ‘bar cave.’
It was 3-4 stories high in some places, so dark in others that you’d
need a flashlight if it weren’t for all the blinking disco lights. We sat at a table and never once forgot we
were in a cave due to the dripping of water on us from above, even though by
all other accounts we were most certainly in a disco with loud music, live
dancers and flashing lights. It was,
quite simply, out of this world! Another
highlight. That’s three in a row- Diving, El Nicho and the cave bar or bar
cave!
I encourage readers to check out this site to view pictures
of this awesome bar. It was just too dark for my camera to get any good
pictures.
Traveling tip #19 Arrive Early
This has happened to me a few other times before on other
trips, though you can never exactly plan on it, but sometimes, when you arrive
early enough (read, so early the place isn’t exactly open) you just might gain
free entrance to whatever it is you’re hoping to visit that day. It happened for me at El Nicho and as a
shoestring traveler, any money saved is appreciated.
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